RRC Archives

I am going to the red this weekend with some friends who are experienced climbers. I have been climbing for about a year. I climb 5.9 to 5.10 in a gym what would be a good first lead in muir valley.

I suggest the practice wall at Joe Ponder. The routes might be a little too easy and way under your 5.9-5.10 range, but after you are done with the easy ones (5.4 and up), you can go for Beta Spewer, a short 5.10 that is lots of fun. After that, head to Bruise Bros Wall at Rebel Camp where there is a plethora of routes ranging from easy to moderate.

Joe Ponder (Practice Wall = routes 14 to 25):
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... .php?id=91

Rebel Camp (Bruise Bros = routes 1 to 24):
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... .php?id=92

P.S. Send Me On My Way is a must do for the first leader. Crux is at the bottom. You can stickclip it if you want.

there are also some at the Great Wall that are good starters...Dynabolt Gold for example

I am in that same range & I found the routes at Rebel Camp to be about the best around for a beginning leader.

Good luck & have fun!

gym ratings are bullshit

Don't be afraid of doing a route that is 'too easy' as your first lead! Believe me, it will be plenty exciting! Leading is dangerous, and if you can focus on moving and clipping safely, (and not be distracted by challenging climbing) you'll be better off.

Once you get the kinks worked out and you're looking for a challenge, I highly recomend "To Defy the Laws of Tradition" at Left Flank:
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... .php?id=20

It's got a somewhat tricky start, a nice crux around the third bolt, a no hands rest mid way and a nice, slightly overhanging finish! It was the location of my first lead fall and caused the first lead for for lots of other people, but it was re-bolted. Originally, it was a good run from the last bolt to the anchors, and it was easy to get so pumped that you couldn't quite make it. With the new bolting, there's a bolt a few feet from the anchors, so you're a lot less likely to take a good whip! (But it's still a really fun route for the grade!)

Re: doing a route that is "too easy" as your first lead.

Excellent point!

My first lead was Sandy's Ass Cherry (aka Lowerd Expectations). I had all but forgotten about that, but it was a great first lead b/c it was so easy & I could concentrate on getting comfortable hanging draws, clipping the rope, etc.

But in Muir Valley...Rebel Camp is the way to go in my opinion.

Even though I started on Trad, I agree about starting on something below what you know you can do. Something that you are willing to spend a few mulments at each clip. It took me a while to learn to get the rope in the clip the first time, but maybe that was just me.
Muir is a great choice to start leading, most routes are bolted close together, which helps with the head game.

you should def. go to the motherload for your first lead experience might as wel get use to taking whippers eh


JK seriously Rebel Branch is perfect