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I'm doing some endurance training, and I'm wondering, from leaving the ground to clipping the anchors, how long (minutes/seconds) do you typically spend sending a Red sport route? I'm not talking about working or hangdogging, but an actual good send.

as long as it takes. there is no set time limit on a route, it might bore your belayer to death but if it takes you an hour to do it who cares!

I;m not talking about a 'time limit' - I'm trying to figure out how long people typically spend actually on a route at the Red. On routes that are slabby or have serious rests, you can spend hours on the route, but for most routes at the Red, the 'pump clock' is ticking from the time you step off the ground to the time you clip the anchors and yell "take!" I'm trying to figure out how long that is typically. My intent is to train to be able to keep moving on overhanging ground for some realistic period of time - 2 minutes? 5 minutes?

tomdarch, It is more about the pacing then about total time on route. Depending on the route, I find I usually have to bust ass and climb fast between rests / easier sections. So, if you want to mimic routes for training - bust out hard boulder problems, then do easy travresing / downclimbing into another boulder problem.

Good point - that's basically what I'm doing. Also, I'm trying to learn what I can recover on and how much. Generally, though, I'm trying to estimate a ball-park time range to shoot for. While on the route, it feels like 30 minutes, but in reality, it's - what - closer to 5 minutes?

now i understand. Duh! try this, count how many moves your proj has and train for at least 10-15 more moves.(complex foot beta must be considered). this realy only works if you have access to a gym or home wall. make sure you train on the same style holds as your prog. and same basic angle, this dose matter. OR, doin 4 or 5 bloc problems in a row works well too. you might have to tone the diff. down a bit to do them all but it works well. this is called 'power endurence' or 'stamina' training.

Tom I know this isn't an answer to the question but I think it is related to the topic, and sorry to mention the Sharma thing but it was identified that one of his strengths was the ability to recover on 5.12ish type terrain, that being said, try to find a benchmark for yourself where you can recover while continuing to move, if you can then push the parameters of that phase of the route in your training ideally it would improve performance, I may be totally off here but so many routes in the Red don't have a stopper move as much as that total pump factor, hopefully someone on here can more succintly identify ways to help us all with this aspect, of course improving our general fitness level is a start duh

What is this general fitness level you speak of?

I guess a general level of fitness would be do you measure your one hundred yard dash times with a stop watch or a calender

I have found that I deal better with the"pump" if I just climb alot. I can go climb nothing but 10's for a couple of weeks and then go climb a 12 with no pump problems at all.
I also want to mention that I have a blast climbing the 10's not for training purposes. I would like to add that the best ten in the gorge is at purple valley.

Its called "come in your lycra". Such a cool route.

The scaryiest 10 is "the mantle route" .

The hardest 10 is "poopie head"