RRC Archives

Folks, how you climb is your business. Don't let old geezers like me dictate.

However, I would like to politely ask that you all think about the wisdom of doing "victory whippers" at the end of an RRG climb by pulling out rope at the top anchors or climbing above them, then bailing off.

A shock yank on a hanger bracket often turns it into a spinner. This Corbin sandstone pulverizes easily, allowing even the tightest bolted hangers to loosen when jerked hard.

Taking falls on the bolted hangers leading up to the top anchors is an expected part of sport climbing. But, there really is no need (other than, perhaps, to feed a defective y chromosome ) to whip at the top anchors. This should be the safest place to attach our pumped old bodies to the rock.

Just something to think about.

Rick

I take whippers from the top a lot of the time. Partly to keep my lead head stright, and partly because I enjoy the fall. By the time you are at the top of the route, there should be enough rope out to where the force on the last bolt is minimal. If the last bolt is out of alinement with the anchors, then I can see the hanger maybe twisting some. When I do whip from the top, it is only on routes that I feel are safe to do so on, and a route with a big pendulam probably wouldn't make that list.

just remember boys and girls this is sandstone not granite but dpnt be afraid.

Wes, I was referring to the two hanger brackets at the anchor twisting, not the bracket below the anchor. A whipper will stress the last brackets the rope passes through.

Hey, it's your call. We'll just keep retightening the bolts.

Rick

Not sure on this one, how exactly does falling from the anchors after the climb is over help your lead head?

If you just want the excitement of a fall, jump off the rock by Gladie into the Red. Or jump out of an airplane.


<----never understood why people like falling (gets enough practice while actually climbing)

Or go bungy jump somewhere.

it really does help ones lead head when climbing. some are fortunate enough to not have to do this but others should in order to help with the mental side of climbing.

Personally I like the unexpected falls the best (the ones that you don't see coming). A foot slipping, a hold breaking, a finger popping off the holds... There is no time to be afraid and you are plummeting before you even know it.

dhoyne wrote:Not sure on this one, how exactly does falling from the anchors after the climb is over help your lead head?

I haven't seen it like that, but lots of people reach the anchors, don't clip them, and fall on the last bolt. Falling is like anything else, the more you practice the better off you'll be when it actually happens.

Defective Y chromosome? I do the victory whip often so what does this mean for me? OMG, I'm a man wearing pink!!