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Ro Shampo actual rating
Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2003 3:31 pm
by Johnny
Well, let's see some more data...
Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2003 6:00 pm
by bberlier
Johnny, you forgot to put in the poll that it felt like 11a if you use all the heel hooks.
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Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2003 3:09 pm
by Johnny
What's a heel hook? Is that like aid climbing?
Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2003 3:20 pm
by SikMonkey
Alright, now here is another Monkeywrench for the Great RedRiver Rating Debate: Check Your Grip is also considered to be a "consensus" 11d but is rated 12a. I would consider Spirit Fingers, an 11c on the same wall, to be actually a tad harder than Check Your Grip. Has anyone been on both of these routes and what is your opinion? I onsighted CYG but Spirit Fingers took a couple of tries (4, I think). Did CYG just play into my strengths or are there forces at work here that none of us can truly comprehend?
Mj
Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2003 3:55 pm
by Johnny
I onsighted Spirit Fingers and took about 6 tries to redpoint CYG.
Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2003 4:09 pm
by SikMonkey
I think my footwork in the middle section was what killed me on Spirit Fingers. Also, I worked on my endurance quite a bit in the two months between my rp on Spirit Fingers and my os of CYG.
What part of CYG stymied you? Was it an endurance issue or a specific move?
Mj
Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2003 4:12 pm
by SCIN
I onsited both of them but compared to Hatuna Makata they both felt like 5.10.
Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2003 4:14 pm
by SikMonkey
Damn, is Hakuna Matata that hard? I haven't been on it yet, but Terry said it would go 12b. I would like to try it as it looks like a stellar line.
Mj
Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2003 4:25 pm
by SCIN
It's probably the fear factor that makes it feel so hard.
Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2003 7:15 pm
by Johnny
CYG had mostly endurance problems for me, but I also had to learn to relax on that longish crux section and not overgrip. Finding a good foothold helped too.