RRC Archives

Hey,

I don't post much, but a recent run in w/ a guy from Bloomington, IN inspired me. If i get his story right, his name is (Sketchy) Josh and he rode his bike, that's right bicycle, from Indiana to the Red. He appaarently stays at Miguel's and bums rides to and from the crag, which was where i met him.

He walked up to Seek the Truth half caucasion colored and half caked with sweaty dirt wearing his only gear: biking shorts and a harness. He claimed he was going to get the climb, but assured me that he wasn't cocky. After a few really sketchy attemps and a sit-start that allowed him to avaid any chalked holds up to the first bolt, it dawned on me that others might have some entertaining stories about this fellow. So, if you have any please share.

Thanks,

I think I know who you are talking about. I saw him top roping something at Muir and he wouldn't give up. He looked like a guy that kept getting kicked to the ground but would get back up and keep fighting. He was trying this one part for about an hour when I left. I think this summer is the first time he's climbed. I think he'd be a good trad climber if you could keep him alive long enough to learn a few things.

Aw, yes ... Josh. I was at Torrent with HotKarl earlier this summer and Josh asked Karl to give him a belay, but he didn't have any gear. So Karl offered his on the climb to the right of Poopie Head. Josh ties in and gears up. Then he turns to Karl and asks, "This is leading, right?" He refused to stick clip and couldn't even get to the first bolt (as I recall), and of course had us all freaked out because he certainly didn't know what he was doing.

Later in the summer, I saw him at Hoosier Heights. He was trying to lead a route on the prow. He struggled to get up the jugs to the first bolt and when he got there, he back clipped. His belayer didn't say anything so Canuck and I yelled across the gym to him that he clipped wrong. He turned to us and yelled back, "You don't know my name!" He was wrong, I knew.

I finally had a conversation with him at the Johnny Crag day. Really nice guy.

i took him to muir valley, without having heard any stories about him before hand. I asked him if he knew how to clean a route, he thought for a second, then replied: "hmmm, im gonna say yes". Well that was not the answer I was looking for, so he didnt get to clean any routes that day.
Later that same day, we went over to solarium, because Sarah and I wanted to get on Air-ride equipped. Tutuer hung the draws, and we took a couple of burns on the route, then Josh said he wanted to try and lead it. I will just say that Im glad I was not the one belaying, because I have never seen anything so sketchy in my life. But man that dude is strong and he really really wanted to get to the top of that climb. He made the 6th clip by hanging with one arm hooked onto a shelf and his feet dangling in the air. It was pretty impressive. But dont bother telling him to take his leg out from behind the rope, because he wont do it =)

I wish I had some of his motivation!

Why is it some people refuse to listen to those with more experience?

Sounds interesting, I have never met the guy, so I won't say anything about him in particular...but I am thinking eventually he may have trouble getting a belay...people who just are reckless (And he seems to not realize, I mean he's not doing it on purpose really...) I don't want to belay, there is only so much you can do. I belayed someone who refused to wear a helmet once (on never before climbed chossy cracks...)...and I should have said NO and made them find someone else. They flipped upside down on one piece of sketchy gear and I caught their head in my hands.It could have been really bad. I was relatively inexperienced as a belayer at the time and the only choice I had given the conditions was to spot the person...well, that and I should have said no to the belay.

Point being...this guy might be funny to tell stories about, but seems like his strength and ambition would be better focused if he calmed down and took some pointers from those around him....

well, basically everybody takes him climbing one time and wont take him again.

Thanks for all the replies. As entertaining as it is watching, I am half expecting to see Josh in the ER in the near future. Until then, please continue keeping him away from dangerous falls, sketchy clips, tough leads, and wrapping his leg.

How long is it before some family sues another climber in an instance like this? If you read this and still let the idiot kill himself, a good lawyer could ruin your life. Legally it would probably be no different than letting a drunk person get in a car. I don't think climbers would sue each other, but angry mothers and fathers wanting to "blame" someone other than their sweet innocent baby wouldn't think twice about suing one of us. Just a warning.

Guys,
This Josh guy from what I understand is very dangerous. When he got down there, he has told a different story or so of how he has gotten down there, etc. The only thing I have nailed down is that he rode his bike down once from Bloomington. You cannot teach him anything because you cannot tell him anything. In climbing is not a good thing.