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Commencement

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 12:06 pm
by Stewy911
So this is 11a in the new guidebook? hmmm, quiet interesting. LEt's go put a solid 11a leader on this thing and see if they get it.
What do u all think? How can it go from being 11d since it was first put up and had kept this rating for so long and then all of the sudden everyone gets stronger and it gets downrated to 11a. I guess next we are going to see stay the hand being .11a and ro shampo being 10d. hmmmm

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 12:08 pm
by dhoyne
Yeah, all 11a's should be really easy so we can walk around and tell people that we're 5.11 climbers. Becuase as we all know, grades mean EVERYTHING in climbing. :roll:

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 12:15 pm
by Stewy911
Grades don;t mean anything in climbing to me but I wouldn;t want a climber just getting into 11's to go do this climb and be like "gosh damn this thing is hard." I dont know, it's all subjective but still 11d to 11a c'mon!

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 12:19 pm
by J-Rock
I think what happened is that the route can be climbed either way (easy 11 or hard 11). Most people go left around the 4th or 5th bolt and it is much easier. However, if you go to the right there then it is more challenging. I once caught a solid 5.11 climber when she chose to go to the right. I'd imagine that the grade was changed to 11a since most people will try to take the path of least resistance. (I still don't think that the bolts should be moved though because of this). Anyway, did Porter bolt that or Rob Turan?

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 12:24 pm
by Wes
Stewy911, Have you done Corpus Delicti yet? How does it compare to commencement?

Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 12:27 pm
by Stewy911
yea if u compare those two routes corpus is def. harder. jrock are you talking about when you get on the crumbly section of the climb after the sit-down rest. When i talk about this route being 11c,d, prob 11c, i am referring to the last two bolt sections because it gets thin thin thin. the bottom is prob 11a but the top isnt