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Nicorette beta
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 1:57 am
by pigsteak
Got on Nicorette for the first time Friday...what a stellar line. Only problem..I didn't figure out good beta between bolt 2 and 3. at bolt 2, you have those two 2 finger pockets, and then this really sick looking sidepull/gaston about 2 feet up..out right is this mailbox slot, which once you get that, you can go casually to the jug below bolt 3....
any help appreciated....(I ended up making the long reach to the slot, skipping the sick hold, but couldn't seem to do that on redpoint.)
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 10:10 am
by Spragwa
Won't beta lower the route grade for your send?
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 11:15 am
by Crankmas
watch those who climb 5.12 and try to emulate them
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 11:17 am
by rhunt
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 3:11 pm
by Meadows
Pansy Pigsteak (how do you like that alliteration?), the beta is to do just as you were doing: stick clip and pull up.
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 3:57 pm
by SCIN
Pigsteak, I avoid the initial pocket by using a small crimp. I liked that way better than using the pocket. I think it was a left hand crimp.
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 4:20 pm
by pigsteak
SCIN, thanks.
Meadows, thanks for adding to the grief.
Rhunt, wipe the smirk off your smiley.
Crankmas, the 5.12 climber belaying me was chicken of the route. How can I learn that way?
Sprag, this was in my sock feet, so the grade stands.
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 4:26 pm
by Ultra
Wow. What a man.
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 5:27 pm
by rhunt
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 6:07 pm
by Meadows
Ultra wrote:Wow. What a man.
A man? Pigsteak is all woman (yes, they can climb too, Ultra).
Pigsteak, you go girl! So BAMF!!
