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Burnt Out

Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 1:59 am
by SCIN
I am so burnt out on working my project but I'm so close so I can't give up. I can't wait to start climbing at my level again. It is so much more fun than projecting. Sometimes it just seems so stupid to attempt a line above my "quick send" level but I guess that's how you get stronger.

How many days of working a route does it take before you get burnt out on it?

Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 2:10 am
by mgad
Hey you mind telling me what your project is. I'm new here and am curious.

Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 2:22 am
by Gaar
Basicly i just stop for a while and let myself forget about the route completely.

It usually takes about 3 consecutive days on a route for me to hate it, but i never alow myself to get that far, ill always walk away and come back another time, usually about a monthe later. i generaly try not to become obsesed with a route, because if i do i feel as i has lost sight of climbing alltogether, and am more conserned with "beating the rock at its own game" rather then having an enjoyable day with my friends and away from the everyday chaos of the world.

Either way Have fun!!!

Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 4:07 am
by SCIN
mgad wrote:Hey you mind telling me what your project is. I'm new here and am curious.
Creature Feature. I can grab the hold over the lip of the roof but each time I try to pull over it I swing off. I am learning that I need to rock my hips back and forth kind of like Elvis before I let my feet off of the ledge to gain the momentum I need to swing over the roof but all I do is swing back away from the rock.

Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 10:10 am
by Wes
They key for me is to have several projects and rotate between them. Good idea to have them at different crags. If you have 3-4 project level routes you are working you can just pick one to work on that day, rather then having a "default" route that you know you are going to.

Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 10:42 am
by pigsteak
and letting go is key, like already said. several summers ago, a buddy and I drove to the Red 6 consecutive weekends from Illinois to work on Table and Stunning. That is a 6.5 hour drive. We were so consumed with sending that even the drive became a mission, and not a fun getaway. I never did send Table that year, and have not been back on it again. I told myself that I would only get back on it when the desire was fresh again. I needed to let go. So drop creature feature, and move on to Monbeam, unless you sent it.

Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 12:26 pm
by Guest
Ray, the key to getting Creature Feature is to grab a random, very stoned and slightly drunk climber from Miguel's after dark and have them belay you.

Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 1:55 pm
by dipsi
Thanks, Sandy! I guess that's what I've been missing all these years! Darn Creature Feature to Hades!

Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 2:35 pm
by usccabum1985
Sandy wrote:Ray, the key to getting Creature Feature is to grab a random, very stoned and slightly drunk climber from Miguel's after dark and have them belay you.
Or climb it;) stoner power realy shines on that route ( one of the best routes to do all blown as hell...) :wink:

Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2005 1:52 am
by Power2U
Ray,

To answer your question....

I can usually give a route 10 tries before I start to question weather I am fit enought to do it. That is usually 4 days of work with 2 to 3 goes a day. 4 goes in a day is usually useless as I am way to cooked to be worth a darn on that go, although I have sent projects on my 3rd try in a day, usually with a what the heck attitude, which takes the presuure off and before I know it I've done the crux and am saying to myself, "Holly crap I can do this." Usually I am super psyched on the route I am projecting so those 4 days of work are fun as I am getting to know the holds and subtleties of the climb, making it feal easier and; threrefore, more enjoyable.

I would venture to say you are having two problems with your current project burning you out...
1.) It is hot and humid and the holds just aren't fun to grab in such conditions....plus it is probably like 3 grades harder with the grease factored in.
2.) You are trying the same beta over and over again and it just plain ain't work'n for ya'. It feels kinda like beating your head into a brick wall at this point.

Soloutions:

Wait until the fall to try again. You probably know thew route pretty well and the cooler temps will make all the diff. If that doesn't work CHANGE your beta. I know that is hard to do but it can make all the dirrerence. I did two routes this year that I sent in about 10 tries each and after falling 8 times or so in the same spot I decided to make a small change in my hand positons on some holds and sent next go... magic!

Good luck and have fun on your project this Oct. Boulder all summer and get fitness in Sept. then you'll be on a tear this Fall.