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I haven't been climbing much in recent months, but i recall being up at Roadside probably no more than 6 months ago and climbing at the Jump For Joy area. We've all been complaining for years about how bad the steep scramble up is getting, how it's eroding away. We even joke that someday Roadside Attraction will be 30 feet longer if this keeps up.

So, Saturday evening when I walked up to Roadside, I was horrified at how bad it's gotten even since that last trip. I even noticed my finger nails don't get dirty like they used to while jamming the attraction. Then we walked around the corner toward Five Finger and Motha and was really taken aback. One of the trees by Motha has finally gone, and the big pine won't last long. The top soil is gone... the bare hard clay won't feed that pine, and the jugs at the start of Motha are almost out of reach. The roots of the tree at the base of Five Finger are showing more and more. Someone has dug up a rock to use as a cheater stone.

This is a fault of mine. I climb there. I contribute to the problem. I am sorry. I am not even sure what can be done about this at this point. I personally am putting a self-imposed restriction on climbing there. I won't be heading up to do those climbs any time soon. That's fine for me... i've done the routes. I don't know what to say to those who haven't.

I know the land is now privately owned... but i would not know what to recommend to the land owner.

I know i have some pics of what the base used to look like. I will try to find them. Does anyone have any older pics and newer pics of the area around Motha and Jump for Joy and Five Finger Discount? I'd love to compare even the last 5 years.

We do cause impact folks. There is no way to deny it. We are in a fairly selfish pursuit and need to be as careful as we can while we're out there.
I'd tell you to go take a look for yourself, but i don't want to promote even further impact.

yuck.

I'm all for prevention of excessive erosion, but take care to distiguish between good land management vs. trying to preserve things exactly as they have always been. Natural forces will eventually alter and erase all routes that currently exist in the gorge. It would seem better to preserve the natural processes in the area rather than try to preserve the climbs as they are. Remember, it was once just the very flat bottom of an inland sea. Nobody did anything to stop the erosion, and now there's a stinkin' gorge there. If it is really the climbs that you are lamenting, a nice thick coat of black top will serve your purpose.

For what its worth, the Muir team deserves praise for the forethought and effort to trail build and layout as well as develop the routes there, it will hopefully ( surely) pay dividends in the long run- as for Roadside I assume its gonna need a grassroots effort, I feel and share your pain JB ( now biting lip )

kato. i do not lament the climbs, nor do i wish to preserve them as they were, but simply to do as you say "preserve the natural processes in the area". This is a very tricky issue when it comes to climbing.

how about a self imposed, voluntary closure of roadside for one year? then we rotate this process to every crag in the Red, where each crag is closed to traffic for one year out of every 10-15 years.

don't like that idea although I bet the relief that the 9b crags are getting is doing wonders for that area ( campers being the main culprit of course

hey, just trying stimulate ideas, esp. since as a group we are notorious for pissing in our own bed. it's funny how voluntary closures have such a negative connotation with climbers.

yeah negatives can be so like negative

but voluntary closure is positive...only to be a negative after the positive aspects are negated with immense traffic from a positive vibe crowd. aw, screw it and keep climbing....big bad gov't intervention will be knocking on your door soon to take your personal property, so better to ruin the land than give it up in a pristine state.

pigsteak wrote:...give it up in a pristine state.