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Paradise Lost - No Hands?
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 12:47 am
by fiveten03
At the big jug halfway through Paradise Lost, if you hang your feet off the wall they fall about 2 inches above a large ledge. Where it's pretty easy to get a "no hands" rest before firing the top. I was curious if kenny gave it the 13b rating not using the ledge, and if he considers it off route since he put it up. Being only inches away for someone at 5'11'', i can't imagine that someone taller couldn't just stand on the ledge without any trouble. Either way it will go! Any comments or ideas are appreciated. Thanks
Devin
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 1:12 am
by Paul3eb
if there's no tape on it, it's not in.
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 1:35 am
by meetVA
So are we suggesting a height dependent rating?
One for shorties and one for tall-ies?
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 1:36 am
by pawilkes
are you talking about between the third and fourth bolt on the arete? i was with kenny out there alot right after he sent it and most people were clipping the forth bolt and then going to the rest. i remember thinking you could climb down further to get a better rest if you really wanted to but kenny didn't think it was worth the effort
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 4:32 am
by allah
the route is a jug hual, I should have just crow bared the jug rest off. HELL i think i might go ahead and do that. Bill Ramsey gave it the 13b rating and he didnt use that fucking ledge as a no hands infact maybe I should just m80 that bitch off. try the route with out the jug at the 3rd, I ended up doing the route first try once I used that damn hold. Just to let everyone know I have not rated anything at that cliff, I have been going by what everyone else says, cause I feel I have no business rating routes. good luck on that route, it is one of the best in my opininon and not because I equipped it either. peace homeys
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 4:39 am
by allah
oh yea, one more thing, if you think Paradise Lost is good and has good climbing, get on Dracula, it might not be as cool looking, but the climbing in my opinion is just as good if not better, with a cool run out with hard moves.
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 6:53 am
by J
they are both piles. the only decent route at that shitpile is lucifer, 2 bad somebody effed the bolt on that
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 11:04 am
by Spragwa
That's it smack the bee's nest. This cliff is one of the prettiest there are. Allah only bolted quality lines there too. He could have bolted a bunch of chossy crap but didn't. It's a great crag. (note that there is no comment on lucifer because I could never haul my ass up that thing)
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 6:19 pm
by Christian
aaaaahhh..... a climbing thread...
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 8:48 pm
by allah
HAHAHAHA J is scared of climbing now, he has quit to start up some gay wrestling shit, where he gets ring worm. So watch out ladies stay away from that scary little man
And Sprag I LOVE YOU!!!!!