Sucked into it

Post by **SCIN** » Fri Dec 13, 2002 2:34 am

Man, I can't believe I've been sucked into doing things like clipping the first set of anchors on Strevels and calling it a send. That route continues up through a massive overhang on harder moves to another set of anchors! Shouldn't I say I sent half of Strevels?
Ditto on Way Up Yonder (contrary to "popular opinion" the rock is not crumbly up there", Windy Corner, Africa, and who knows what else!!

Post by **SikMonkey** » Fri Dec 13, 2002 12:54 pm

I have never been on Strevels, but you say the upper half of Way Up Yonder is good? I have always heard it's a bit chossy too. As far as just sending half, you should think of them as two separate routes. Up Yonder, 11a/b, and Way Up Yonder, 12a. Same could be said for Strevels; Strevels Warms Up, 12a and Strevels Gets in Shape, 12b.

Mj

Post by **bberlier** » Fri Dec 13, 2002 1:57 pm

Strevels is 12b whether you stop or go all the way. It just turns it into an endurance fest. Good climbing up high, it seems to go on forever.

I think Way Up Yonder is a little chossy and not too worth it.

Post by **SCIN** » Fri Dec 13, 2002 2:24 pm

I heard a storie of a guy who onsited everything on the 5.12 wall at Torrent but the upper section of Strevels completely cooked him.

Post by **bberlier** » Fri Dec 13, 2002 2:47 pm

Its been years, but I don't remember any hard moves up high. Just consistent climbing.

Post by **SCIN** » Fri Dec 13, 2002 3:26 pm

That's because you're the one and only b-bryan-berlier!

Post by **bberlier** » Fri Dec 13, 2002 4:12 pm

I forgot to tell I bivied on the shelf for a couple days to get ready for that upper section! My belayer almost died from exposure!

Post by **Gretchen** » Fri Dec 13, 2002 4:18 pm

Yeah I was lucky that they were able to save my toes!

Post by **SCIN** » Fri Dec 13, 2002 4:19 pm

Now come on Bryan. Don't you know that the RRSCEC (Red River Sport Climbing Ethics Committee) does not consider it a "send" if you rest on 20 foot ledges?

Post by **Gretchen** » Fri Dec 13, 2002 4:37 pm

I don't think that the RRSCEC was formed back then, at least not well organized!