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how in the hell
Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 8:43 pm
by peteypablo
I dont get man, you guys climbing grades i cant imagine or have even tried, how do you guys get so good, steroids, herb, crack, what makes you guys so good to climb 12s, 13s, i about shit my pants top ropping 10s.
please let me know the deepest darkest secrets of the climbing society so i can one day climb these grades.
pablo
Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 8:45 pm
by diggum
i don't know, but i've been told...
patience & determination (2 things that normally don't go well together).
so...here i am...patiently determined & having fun.
Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 8:48 pm
by squeezindlemmon
sniff some herbal chalk. you can get it from RRO.
Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:04 pm
by pawilkes
climb every weekend for 4 years. it just takes lots of experience and skill/strength building.
Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:20 pm
by dhoyne
To climb in the 13's, you pretty much have to devote yourself to climbing. Climb a few days a week. Alter your diet and exercise for climbing. Train for climbing. Take lots of climbing trips.
I'm willing to wager that most people that climb in the 13's either live within a hour of a major crag or have 250,000+ miles on their car.
Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:22 pm
by the lurkist
Get a woody at home. That is the secret. Also, get some professional training advice or training advice that you will stick to from someone experienced.
You can spin your wheels bashing yourself against the 5.11 barrier for years by wasting time doing the wrong things.
You can also approach cliimbing with a thoughtful disciplined approach, (like an athelete) and make consistent gains and climb 5.13 in a few years.
Bottom line, I have always found that breaking into 5.12 requires training about three days per week (this includes climbing time at the cliff).
Climbing 5.13 requires a bit more committment (longer training sessions and obviously a bit more ramp up time).
That is just my experience...
The Lurkist
Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 10:28 pm
by Wes
It also depends on your genitic makeup as well. If you are "built for the big numbers", then your path to the higher grades will be somewhat easier. But, the key is really hard work over time. Bouldering, hangboards, etc. are important, as is overall fitnesss. I have found increased cardio training really helps on the steep sport routes. Helps you recover quicker and more completly at rest. The other thing is to climb hard when you do climb. I feel that you make much better pratice by getting on routes at least a couple letters harder then whay you are currently sending. The red is cool in that if you can RP 10's, odds are good you can get up a bunch of 11's with a couple falls/hangs. Then you can work them on TR, or best case, lead. Build up slowly and don't worry about failing, seek out routes that you will fail on and you will be rewarded.
Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2005 10:50 pm
by Jonathan
All of what these guys said and pick up both "Flash Training" and "How to Climb 5.12", both buy Eric Horst. Make these two books your bibles and stick to what he's outlined for you.
Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 1:45 am
by diggum
I've yet to take a lead fall. I'm scared ta death to try to lead something I know I will fall on. That's a major obstacle in my progress & I'm not sure how to get past it.
Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2005 1:53 am
by JB
some of us never do diggum... so we progress very very very slowly... but i still enjoy myself very very very much.