RRC Archives

Encountered sojme spinners this weekend, so I thouhgt I would ask:
How much should youtighten a bolt that spins?

Also- I noticed on some new routes the bolts used have a threaded rod sticking out, with a nut on it. What are these, and how are they different than the RAWL powerbolts?

Also, on mid-life crisis, both anchor bolts spin a little, but I diddn't know if that was how they were supposed to work. If they spin, they move towards each other and make it a little more 'equalized.'

Also, which type of wrench would be best to carry, an adjustable, or box wrenches. What size are moth of the bolts. Some look as large as 9/16.

Just clip the fucking things and climb on by. Forget the spinners, how are you ever going to Red point with all that brain activity? You have a whole stringer of spinners below you to catch you once the top one fails. GET ON WITH IT!!!! or not...

Hmmm. actually, that's what I am currently doing, however, I always hear bolter complain about people complaining about spinners, and that that people should just tighten them up, as preventative maintenence.

one thing i remember sunshine saying that i'll never forget: "everyone should carry a xxx wrench with them on their harness." i do forget what size he said and i keep meaning to ask him.. so i guess this is me asking him

vice grips and duct tape fix everything.

I want to say 9/16 but that could be totally off.

I DO remember weber saying that bolts are fairly easy to break if you overtighten them.

Huggy, i plan on replacing the current anchor setup on Midlife Crisis soon. They are shuts with gates, which tend to move back and forth in soft rock. Just contact any one on Team Muir and they will fix the spinners at Muir.

I thought I also heard that spinners really aren't that bad as llong as they don't start to erode into the bolt itself. I may be wrong though.

9/16" wrench.

Spinners are a normal part of climbing... no big deal. With Dynabolt Golds you must spin them many, many, MANY times before you are able to pull it out of the rock.

If you can't remember 9/16" a small crescent wrench (aka adjustable wrench) works. Please don't use vice grips or pliers, though. More likely than not you'll strip the head and/or leave little sharp, pointy metal spikey things that'll cut somebody's hand and make them cry.

The other question was, "How tight?" I'm gonna guess "snug" is the answer because really cranking on it could either strip the thread out of the rock or twist off the head, or pull the anchor forward in those bolts that screw into an expanding anchor.