Muir Updated Info for April
Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2005 8:12 pm
First off, thanks again, Ray, for providing this forum. It's been a great place to post updates on Muir Valley.
Most of you who have visited the Valley lately are aware that there is much going on. Route setting, trail building, new maintenance equipment, etc. There are some important things you should know before coming here to climb. Some of this info is old; most is new. But, because many of you will be first-time visitors, please read it thoroughly. You can avoid some of the pitfalls that others encountered after they failed to get some beta on this place.
1. The new parking lot is finished! I graded and graveled it yesterday. And with over 7000 square feet, it will accommodate about 28 cars, efficiently parked. (The way most of us climbers park, it's probably good for only 22 cars.) Please try to park reasonably close to the next guy. And, please don't block the door to the new maintenance building. One row to the right and one to the left. Last Sunday, in both the official parking lot and the off-property dirt area at the end of the main road, there were about 30 cars.
So, we are pretty near our limits. You can help alleviate congestion by carpooling in.
2. Many of us are used to places like Roadside where no map is needed. Just follow the trail to the base of the cliff, and look for something to climb. Muir is different. The cliff extends for almost eight miles. Every weekend, groups who failed to download a map or read the one at the kiosk get lost and hike around unnecessarily in frustration because they failed to get instructions. Our maps and topos are being updated continually. Be sure you know where you are going before heading out. It will make your day a lot more enjoyable.
3. There are about 170 climbs now bolted in the Valley. About four or more are added per weekend. These are new climbs. Although, many are 1, 2, &3 star routes, in the beginning, they can be a little dusty and brittle. Just a reminder here (especially to newbies with gym-only experience) that you are climbing in the wild. it takes perhaps a hundred climbs before all the marginal stuff is pulled off any new climb in the Red.
Last year, a bunch of gym kiddies from Indy visited and were pretty whiny about this "real rock" stuff. Eeewwww! Dirt, lichen and even snakes! And, worse yet, the holds aren't painted pink, blue, orange, puce... Well, boys and girls, welcome to the real world of Corbin Sandstone. Sorry, no colorful polymer smily face holds here. (They also failed to follow directions and completly missed all the good climbing areas.)
4. Even though the dirt parking area at the end of the main road (OFF Muir land) is officially closed, we were allowing parking there until the main lot (ON Muir land) was finished. With the large number of visitors, we have decided to continue to allow parking on the dirt lot until the land owner tells us otherwise. (So far, she is fine with the parking,) If you arrive there someday and find a "No Parking" sign, then return to the main parking lot.
5. If you park in the main parking lot and want to go to the upper Valley (i.e. Tantroft, Indy Wall, Tectonics Wall, Sanctuary, Great Wall, Solarium, etc.) then, from the west end of the main parking lot, hike north along the newly excavated road. About 300 feet BEFORE this new road ends, it comes near to the old logging road, which you can barely see up and to your left. Hike up to this road ( about 20 feet in elevation), and follow it down to the Valley floor.
6. This is a particularly beautiful time of the year in Eastern Kentucky with all the wildflowers in bloom. Please try not to trample or lay your gear on plants and flowers -- especially those close to climbs, such as the rare wild iris patch by the Bruise Brothers Wall in Rebel Camp Hollow.
7. Most of us love dogs. They are welcome at Muir on leashes. To avoid dangerous situations at the cliffs, please keep them away from the belay zones.
8. Please don't pee under rock roofs. Rain is essential to refresh the ground. And, please haul out ALL refuse.
9. In respect for our neighbors' peace and quiet, please enter and leave the Valley quietly.
In the past few days we've had the pleasure of meeting a lot of you in the Valley who regularly post here. Finally, a chance to put a name with an... uh alias. Thanks to all for your kind words and offers of help!
We are directing all of your offers ($ and effort) to Squeezindlemmon (Karla Carandang) who is heading up "Friends of Muir Valley." This is a group of nice folks who are volunteering to build and maintain trails and in general, make the Valley a climbers' paradise. They are operating separately from Muir Valley, LLC and have our approval and appreciation.
Rick Weber
Most of you who have visited the Valley lately are aware that there is much going on. Route setting, trail building, new maintenance equipment, etc. There are some important things you should know before coming here to climb. Some of this info is old; most is new. But, because many of you will be first-time visitors, please read it thoroughly. You can avoid some of the pitfalls that others encountered after they failed to get some beta on this place.
1. The new parking lot is finished! I graded and graveled it yesterday. And with over 7000 square feet, it will accommodate about 28 cars, efficiently parked. (The way most of us climbers park, it's probably good for only 22 cars.) Please try to park reasonably close to the next guy. And, please don't block the door to the new maintenance building. One row to the right and one to the left. Last Sunday, in both the official parking lot and the off-property dirt area at the end of the main road, there were about 30 cars.
So, we are pretty near our limits. You can help alleviate congestion by carpooling in.
2. Many of us are used to places like Roadside where no map is needed. Just follow the trail to the base of the cliff, and look for something to climb. Muir is different. The cliff extends for almost eight miles. Every weekend, groups who failed to download a map or read the one at the kiosk get lost and hike around unnecessarily in frustration because they failed to get instructions. Our maps and topos are being updated continually. Be sure you know where you are going before heading out. It will make your day a lot more enjoyable.
3. There are about 170 climbs now bolted in the Valley. About four or more are added per weekend. These are new climbs. Although, many are 1, 2, &3 star routes, in the beginning, they can be a little dusty and brittle. Just a reminder here (especially to newbies with gym-only experience) that you are climbing in the wild. it takes perhaps a hundred climbs before all the marginal stuff is pulled off any new climb in the Red.
Last year, a bunch of gym kiddies from Indy visited and were pretty whiny about this "real rock" stuff. Eeewwww! Dirt, lichen and even snakes! And, worse yet, the holds aren't painted pink, blue, orange, puce... Well, boys and girls, welcome to the real world of Corbin Sandstone. Sorry, no colorful polymer smily face holds here. (They also failed to follow directions and completly missed all the good climbing areas.)
4. Even though the dirt parking area at the end of the main road (OFF Muir land) is officially closed, we were allowing parking there until the main lot (ON Muir land) was finished. With the large number of visitors, we have decided to continue to allow parking on the dirt lot until the land owner tells us otherwise. (So far, she is fine with the parking,) If you arrive there someday and find a "No Parking" sign, then return to the main parking lot.
5. If you park in the main parking lot and want to go to the upper Valley (i.e. Tantroft, Indy Wall, Tectonics Wall, Sanctuary, Great Wall, Solarium, etc.) then, from the west end of the main parking lot, hike north along the newly excavated road. About 300 feet BEFORE this new road ends, it comes near to the old logging road, which you can barely see up and to your left. Hike up to this road ( about 20 feet in elevation), and follow it down to the Valley floor.
6. This is a particularly beautiful time of the year in Eastern Kentucky with all the wildflowers in bloom. Please try not to trample or lay your gear on plants and flowers -- especially those close to climbs, such as the rare wild iris patch by the Bruise Brothers Wall in Rebel Camp Hollow.
7. Most of us love dogs. They are welcome at Muir on leashes. To avoid dangerous situations at the cliffs, please keep them away from the belay zones.
8. Please don't pee under rock roofs. Rain is essential to refresh the ground. And, please haul out ALL refuse.
9. In respect for our neighbors' peace and quiet, please enter and leave the Valley quietly.
In the past few days we've had the pleasure of meeting a lot of you in the Valley who regularly post here. Finally, a chance to put a name with an... uh alias. Thanks to all for your kind words and offers of help!
We are directing all of your offers ($ and effort) to Squeezindlemmon (Karla Carandang) who is heading up "Friends of Muir Valley." This is a group of nice folks who are volunteering to build and maintain trails and in general, make the Valley a climbers' paradise. They are operating separately from Muir Valley, LLC and have our approval and appreciation.
Rick Weber
