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climbing at Raven Rock

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 3:13 am
by haas
I was thinking about checking Raven Rock out and was curious if anyone done the routes up there. I see from the online guide quite a few have done Nevermore. That climb just seems like a route you have to do sometime in your Red career. How is it? Is the R rated section the 5.9 face stuff or has micro cams eliminated the R rating?

Any of the other routes up there worth doing? I was thinking about checking out Flying Circus but the rock quality sounds bad. Any info would be cool. Thanks

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 3:32 am
by ynot
I wouldn't mind going up there again, with you. I want to do Dead of Winter.
There is no parking in the little comunity there so it's a long walk. Nevermore is memorable to say the least.

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 3:46 am
by Wes
Nevermore is worth doing once - it is usually kinda dirty, and the climbing was so-so. The "R" section is the crux face climbing, but I guess you can get some cams in? I just followed. Do it in two or three pitches.

The better approch is to park just on the other side of the iron bridge, cross the bridge, and drop down to follow the river for a bit. You should pick up a trail that will take you to the old road, then just follow that for a couple switchbacks. Look for a trail on your left as you near the top, that will take you to nevermore.

Wes

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 1:43 pm
by haas
ynot, Dead of Winter sounds good too. I'll be down in the red this weekend, but it looks like lots of rain, maybe the weekend of April 1st?

Thanks for the info Wes

Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 10:43 pm
by ynot
Sounds good. Last time I was up there a storm came up.There is nowhere to get out of the rain..

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:31 pm
by skychick
I was on Nevermore, this past weekend. Someone (I couldn't figure out who by the online guidebook) added debatably unnecessary bolts to the 'runout section' and defaced this 'classic' route.

Needless to say, it is no longer 'R' -- and it should not have both the 'M' & the 'R' stigmas attached to it.

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:35 pm
by Wes
Added bolts or just replaced the three that were already there?

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:36 pm
by Meadows
skychick wrote: Someone (I couldn't figure out who by the online guidebook) added debatably unnecessary bolts to the 'runout section' and defaced this 'classic' route.
Wasn't this part of Loren's campaign last year?

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtop ... sc&start=0

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:52 pm
by skychick
Wes wrote:Added bolts or just replaced the three that were already there?
I was told they weren't there the last 3 times someone in our party had done the route & now they are. There are additional, older looking bolts in the wall that do not have hangers on them (within 15 feet of the new, shiny hangers), as well as a piton at the end of pitch 2.

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 9:56 pm
by ynot
So why shouldn't it have an M ?