safety-loose bolts etc.

Post by **jeff-terri** » Tue Mar 15, 2005 10:01 am

does anyone have a list or website that allows a post list for loose bolts, cracked or otherwise unsafe rock that can be accessed before a trip? like the third bolt on brother stair at left flank is loose & pressure cracked. things of this nature would be of help to us older climers that got older by being informed & a little less unnessary risk takers

Post by **J-Rock** » Tue Mar 15, 2005 2:19 pm

We've been trying to do this on the CAC. There is an extensive database but so far nobody has supplied us with the rest of the necessary information. Terry would probably be the best guy to talk to about such things since he is the most knowledgeable and does most of the anchor replacing in the Red. Eventually I would like this database to be linked to this website and the coalition website so that people could record loose bolts, bad anchors, replacements, upgrades, etc.

Post by **Wes** » Tue Mar 15, 2005 2:31 pm

Brother stair was re-bolted a couple months ago. Are you sure it is *bad*?

Wes

Post by **J-Rock** » Tue Mar 15, 2005 2:39 pm

I was told by a friend that the anchors on "To Defy the Laws of Tradition" were loose and that one of the bolts pulled completely out. The database has been complete for several months, but so far nobody has supplied any information and the coalition seemed uninterested about it.

Post by **Wes** » Tue Mar 15, 2005 3:18 pm

Sometimes it is a bad bolt, but most of the time just tightening the bolt a bit is all that is needed. Just bring a wrench with you when you climb, and if there is a loose bolt, snug it up.

Wes

Post by **Sco Bro** » Tue Mar 15, 2005 4:54 pm

We've been trying to do this on the CAC. There is an extensive database but so far nobody has supplied us with the rest of the necessary information.

Where is this database. I didn't know that someone had gone to the trouble. I'd be happy to update a database when I run into a bad bolt, rusted anchors, etc.

Post by **Stewy911** » Tue Mar 15, 2005 5:12 pm

Yea Team Epic always finds those rusted bolts and loose anchors. Its probably because my fatass takes so many whips on those bolts. But anywho Sco and I would be happy to report those findings to this unknown database (to myself atleast)

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Tue Mar 15, 2005 5:32 pm

This "database" was proposed in one of the CAC meetings that Tim Powers headed (during his short tenure as Pres). It's a *measly* excel spreadsheet that contains all the routes in the Red as included in Bronaugh's guidebook and the online guide here - it contains the year of the FA, the year anchors were placed (?), any retrobolting, etc. The idea was to use it to keep track of bolts and hangers in question at the Red and have the bolting & restoration committee of the CAC take care of it, but the idea was never implemented although the spreadsheet is still in existence.

Post by **Sunshine** » Tue Mar 15, 2005 6:10 pm

They are all loose, and/or cracked, and placed in otherwise unsafe rock. I always bring my own bolts just in case. After all it is sport climbing. Remember, when sport climbing, that there is usually just one of the above mentioned bolts between you and a ground fall. Sometimes even when at the anchors. Don't believe me? Do the math. I have. And, do what Wes says.

Post by **J-Rock** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 1:11 am

I believe that Sunshine would be the perfect guy to help manage the database with his knowledge and experience. I don't believe that there is anyone in the Red who has done more to replace bad bolts, anchors, etc. and is more qualified to help track the upgrades.