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Roller 'biners
Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 10:48 pm
by Alan Evil
A friend gave Jeff a pair of those roller beaners and we used them on the anchors this weekend on some sport routes at Torrent. I think they're pretty cool. Seemed as if they gave a smooth catch on TR falls and very smooth lowering (from the pov of a belayer). I couldn't tell anything different about them while on TR but that's because, I'm proud to say, I only ended up on the rope once per climb (except for slipping off the first move once, but that's starting over) with warning each time due to frozen fingers. And I'll admit that I may have been a little pumped out as well.
Anyone else used these?
Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 11:17 pm
by haas
They're too expensive for my taste
Re: Roller 'biners
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 4:04 am
by krazykid
Alan Evil wrote:A friend gave Jeff a pair of those roller beaners
want to introduce me to your friend? I could use a pair
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 4:09 am
by Wes
Seams kinda like something to use if you were setting up a lot of tr's for a big group. I have seen normal lockers pretty well groved after just one day of boy scouts and static lines. But, since we all know TR'ing isn't really climbing, they would be kinda out of place and un-needed on most lead racks.
Oh, and Torrent is a dumb place to go when it is cold out. Even if it is cloudy, still go to the usually sunny crags, and the radation still hits the rock and warms it somewhat.
Wes
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 4:20 am
by KD
i have seen them - they look like they are designed to reduce rope drag - but a good ol' long sling does that pretty well. kinda neat idea though and dmm makes bomber quality stuff.
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 4:48 am
by KenJo
dmm rules. the roller is good for places like the obed where drag is an issue. otherwise....3 ft runners.
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 1:59 pm
by squeezindlemmon
We've carried those things with us on multi-pitch climbs but don't really feel much of a difference when placed to 'reduce drag'.
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2005 9:30 pm
by Joel
I figure a certain amount of rope drag is a good thing.
I once saw a guy deck from 30 feet. The belayer wasn't paying attention, the climber fell with nothing to slow him down except rope drag in the anchors and in the belay device. And he walked away from it. Would have been uglier than that if there was less rope drag.
Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 4:43 pm
by Jeff
Wes wrote:.Oh, and Torrent is a dumb place to go when it is cold out. Even if it is cloudy, still go to the usually sunny crags, and the radation still hits the rock and warms it somewhat.
Wes
Ah, the infinate wisdom....
Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 4:48 pm
by KD
Joel wrote:I figure a certain amount of rope drag is a good thing.
I once saw a guy deck from 30 feet. The belayer wasn't paying attention, the climber fell with nothing to slow him down except rope drag in the anchors and in the belay device. And he walked away from it. Would have been uglier than that if there was less rope drag.
I suppose a little friction from rope drag might not be to bad then, but i,ve almost fallen because there was so much drag i had trouble moving. That's when i started learning how to use long slings:)