RRC Archives

I got to chatting with this cute Canadeun the other day about rest/recovery on a route. Neither of us are any good at recovery while on a route without hanging on the rope for a while. I understand the idea of finding a good hold and switching hands while you shake/chalk the other one but somehow that seems to make me feel weaker instead of refreshed. Any suggestions on how to recover on a route?

Learn how to relax while resting (easier said than done) If trying to redpoint I usually will rest until my heart rate and breathing return to normal or close to it.

If you are climbing relaxed to begin with this will happen sooner. Also while you are hanging on to said jug, make sure that your arms are straight and that you are hangning on your bones so to speak. Make sure that your feet are secure and hold your core solid.

Not sure if that makes sense to you or not but I hope it helps. It made a big difference for me in sending both onsight and redpoint when I relaxed and climbed out of the pure love of it not the "I am going to conquer" mentality.

If you have the opportunity to find good enough footing and can post up for a long enough time to rest your arms then I would take advantage of that. Although that is rarely the case, I tend to streatch my fingers on the gear slings on my harness, that tends to help a great deal. Other than that I really dont know any other advice to give you.

um... how do you shake out? Are your arms above your head or below you waste? are you strate armed or bent? do you have your feet placed well? all of those might have some impact on how you rest. Someone told me once that if you hold your arms above your head and act like your flicking water for 10 sec on each arm, repeat and it will de pump you. I have had mixed resultes with this method. My personal prefrence is to only take short rests as my hands become de chalked. a quick shake hear and there dose the trick for me. Might not for you but thats my 2 cents

P.s. I have never met you and have no clue how you climb. plese dont be offinded if this post seems insulting, I just want to help. good luck fightng the PUMP

When your hanging there trying to recover try to hang on without actually Squeezing the hold or holds your on. I consider myself to be very good at recovering while on route, and I try to imagine that there is a great weight sitting on top of each of my fingers. Its just something that seems to help me focus on not overgripping and on the rest of the route.

If you would like you can sign up for one of the R110 courses, you know, you can bill it to your bursar.

try training for the pump in the gym. I like to do routes back to back to back, until I get a massive pump. Then, jump back on once more, run it to a nice jug, and just chill out, using whatever holds necessary, until you lose the pump. let you rbelayer know you'll be chillin' for several minutes, so they can stretch their neck. the key for me has been to puposely get the pump, and then try to lose it, all in the same "session". .....rest for 30-40 minutes while your partner does this, and then repeat. good luck....

You have to teach yourself to take advantage of the good stances and jugs for a rest. Its to easy to keep moving on the casual parts and then flame out on the crux. Milking a rest spot is just one more thing you have to remember to do.

Thanks for all the info, but how does this work on the overhanging routes? I rest with my arms locked out but it's my grip that isn't recovering. Any suggestions for getting a good stance when you're on overhanging rock?

I think it really helps to be pretty fit, cardio-wise. Pace is also very important. Climb the easy parts slow, maybe shaking out a little bit on each hold and climb the harder parts fast. Work on turn out flexabilty. My friend shawn gave me really good advice on resting. Just rest and shake until you can start hearing the background noise - like birds and stuff. That means you are just about ready to go.

Wes

Knee bars, heel hooks, and toe hooks on steep terrain will usually help. Occassionally you might even get lucky and find a good hand jam. Ahh... I want to go climbing now!