11a project

0aj0 · Post by **0aj0** » Sat Nov 23, 2002 11:31 pm

i am looking for a project for this winter/spring in the 11a range. i was thinking maypop or rectal exorcism. i am looking for shorter routes (40-50 ft). any suggestions or new routes i should look at? thanks.

Post by **doubleostevo** » Sun Nov 24, 2002 12:04 am

i suggest vandalism at oil crack...a definite good start on the 11's or armadillo at the zoo another good 11a...
both are slabby

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Mon Nov 25, 2002 12:29 am

you might wanna avoid maypop since it's .10 d, and the fact that it sucks. do fuzzy undercling, the first pitch of up yonder, any of the .11's on the .11 wall at torrent (they're all about the same), or the steep .11's at the arena. way better than slabby crap.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Mon Nov 25, 2002 12:30 am

damn i forgot! forget all that crap. go do prime directive. it's .11b but there's not much difference.

Post by **the lurkist** » Mon Nov 25, 2002 1:47 pm

Why not suggest thst high quality 11a (or is it 11d/12a) A Wall at the seldom visited cliff Roadside? It is classic for the grade. A must do for anyone setting there sites on the "Big Number".

Post by **Sco Bro** » Mon Nov 25, 2002 4:10 pm

I'm just getting into the 11s, so I haven't climbed some of the ones suggested, but with that in mind. . .I think Armidillo is a blast (5.11a at the Zoo), but I like slab. If you're only criteria is a shorter climb then I'd say Up Yonder (5.11a at Roadside), it's steep but with lots of big holds. It's about 40 feet, it's a lot of fun.

Both of those climbs get sun which is something you'll need to keep in mind. I think Maypop is fairly shaded. I've been on that on a cold winter morning and it was not pleasant at all.

Post by **captain stabbin** » Mon Nov 25, 2002 4:47 pm

Move to Colorado if you like slab. there is so much slab, you will be in Slab Heaven.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Nov 25, 2002 5:29 pm

Though not short, the following routes have great rests.
1. Whipstocking
2. Sidekick
3. Fuzzy
4. Another Doug Reed Route
5. Syncronicity(do the old finish on Pulling Pockets for a top rope).
The above routes have sun in the winter!
Yea, Syncronicity is short!

Post by **SikMonkey** » Mon Nov 25, 2002 5:43 pm

Another Doug Reed Route is great.

Mj

Post by **Wes** » Mon Nov 25, 2002 7:26 pm

Bandolier is really just three short 10ish "pitches". And I think Whipstocking has really cool moves, although I have only been on it twice. Pick a three star route that will teach you something, or force you to develop more power or endurance, not one that matches your current skills.

Wes