First Time Red Trip

Post by **liverspot** » Tue Feb 15, 2005 12:41 am

Hey All,

Making a trip down from Ontario to climb from the 20th - 23rd or so (depending on the weather) with buddy of mine to do some sport. We're looking to spend some time at a few of the areas and focus on anything up to 5.10b/c. What areas / routes would you guys suggest that have decent warm-up routes (.9 or less). If the weather turns rainy / cold is there any areas that get a lot of sun / stay relatively dry? Anything that we should keep an eye out for or make an effort to see during those non-climbing breaks.

Thanks,

Rob

Post by **goodguy** » Tue Feb 15, 2005 12:54 am

Climbing at Roadside Crag is great for sun, dry routes, and easy warm ups.
you should check out the online guide.

Post by **Gaar** » Tue Feb 15, 2005 2:06 am

Torrent Falls, good all around things there. Just keep you dog (If you have one) on a damn leash.

It also has one of the easiest approches in the red. STAIRS!!!!

Post by **krazykid** » Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:42 pm

Left Flank and Military have some great stuff that stays dry in the rain... like Defy the Laws at LF 10a... and In the Light at M 10c... Have fun. I remember my first trip to the Red... it was with a beat up copy of Porter's guide... I had so much fun... eating at miguels... the adrenalin of leading outside for the first time... the beautiful views... the crazy climbers we met.... it was awsome!!!

Post by **J-Rock** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 12:07 am

Oh yeah, and after all of that you can check out Muir Valley.

Post by **dipsi** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 6:16 am

You simply must! Be sure to go to the website and sign a waiver though! Is that still on, J-Rock?

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 2:20 pm

Absolutely, Dipsi!

Post by **liverspot** » Wed Feb 16, 2005 8:53 pm

Thanks for all the help guys. It looks like the three areas we are going to focus on are Torrent Falls, Roadside, and Muir Valley. Less than 50% chance of rain on the sunday so hopefully it'll hold up and we can get three nice days in.

Post by **Sco Bro** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 8:50 pm

You’ll really enjoy those three areas. Both Roadside and Torrent are easy approaches. Muir is a farther hike, but very beautiful and scenic.

Just to let you know my opinion, you may find the grades at Torrent a bit steep and some of the ones at Muir are easier than the grade given. The online guidebook will give you some insight. It will give you the grade of the route per the last guide book (or if it’s new the grade given by the FA) and the current consensus grade among climbers. This will at least let you know if there is some debate about the grade of a route.

Make sure you check out the Tectonic Wall and the 10 wall (aka Johnny’s Wall) at Muir; that will give you five or six climbs in the 5.9-5.10 range within spitting distance of one another.