Anchor hardware and sources

[weber]

Several climbers on this forum have directed questions to me about climbing hardware. Please understand that I'm no expert in this area. But, in compiling and editing the booklet, "Bolting in the Red", and in being involved with route development in Muir, I've managed to gather up a lot of useful information that could be of interest to some of you.

We will soon be conducting extensive destructive testing of much of the types of hardware currently used in the Red -- primarily bolts, hangers, chains, and screw links. Details of our hydraulic bolt terminator (affectionately dubbed, "Arnold") and results of the tests will be reported this forum after they are completed in late spring. A photo of Arnold will be posted in the next few days.

The "Bolting in the Red" booklet (actually, it is growing into a book) will be available soon as a free pdf download from www.muirvalley.com

Many of you have asked us for sources for quick links (also known as threaded connectors, screw links, and maillons.)

First, please understand that although quick links all look pretty much the same, some of these are sold by climbing hardware retailers for the purpose of using on anchor systems, and others are sold by hardware companies that include statements like, "not for overhead use." Because most of us don't have sophisticated metallurgy inspection tools at our disposal, we need to come to peace with the level of risk we are willing to accept. Do we use a $1.82 quick link stamped with "2200 lbs SWL" (SWL = safe working load.) Or are we better off with an similar looking quick link with an almost identical SWL rating priced for $6.45 from a climbing hardware dealer?

For the record, the climb developer team in Muir installs, among other hardware, those quick links that sell for $1.82 each. We are comfortable with the risk that two of this screw links offer a climber when made part of an anchor system. Ultimately, it is YOU, the climber, who must decide what level of risk you wish to accept.

An anchor system is made up of several components. Many of us believe that in the Red River Gorge, the weakest link is the very Corbin sandstone that we are bolting into. An anchor system, employing two quick links with an SWL of 2200 lbs each and a combined ultimate failure occurring at about 21,000 pounds, in actuality, will probably fail when the rock disintegrates around the bolt when the pull out force reaches only about 3000 pounds. This kind of puts things in perspective. We are eager to start testing anchor systems to either verify or disprove many of our assumptions.

Okay, wake up... the lecture is over. Sorry.

Many questions came from the thread "Rapping off or Lowering" and concerned quick links and where to buy them.

10 mm Maillion Rapides (quick links) SWL-rated at 2205 lbs (11,020 lbs breaking strength) can be purchased from several climbing hardware dealers. One is Karst Sports ( http://store.karstsports.com or 800-734-2851.) Karst sells them for $6.45 each. Credit cards are accepted.

3/8-inch stock dia. quick links with "SWL 2200 lbs." stamped on them are available from MacMaster Carr. Their part number is: 8947T18. They are priced at $2.02 each or $1.82 each in quantities of 50. Printed on the catalog page for these items is: "Not for overhead lifting." MacMaster Carr can be reached at 630-833-0300, and they take credit cards.

When installing quick links, liberally apply Loctite #262 Threadlocker to the threads, then use a wrench to tighten the gate screw. To remove a worn quick link, break the thread lock seal by gently applying heat with a small butane torch.

Loctite #262 Threadlocker can be also purchased from MacMaster Carr (their part no. 91458A14) for $9.30 for a small bottle.

So, why not use quick links smaller than 3/8-inch or 10mm? The strengths of smaller links might seem to be more than adequate. The simple answer is to provide sufficient reserve as our sand-impregnated ropes grind away at the metal.

Much of the top anchor and hanger hardware installed in Muir Valley is made by Fixe U.S. Although, not cheap, their chain and ring anchor systems are very high quality. Fixe is also carried by several major climbing hardware dealers. Their complete line of hardware can be seen at http://www.fixeusa.com

Most of the hangers and anchors installed in Muir and all of the Red are attached with mechanical expansion bolts, such as 1/2" Rawl and Ramset Dynabolt Golds. Inspired by successes with glue-in bolts achieved by route developers in other areas of sandstone in South Africa and Australia, we have been experimenting with this means of attachment. After testing several configurations, we will report the results on this forum. Initial results are very promising.

The bolting booklet will include a much more comprehesive discussion of the various hardware that can be used in developing rock climbing routes. Stay tuned.

And again, please, if you find hardware in Muir Valley that shows wear, please let t_bone, j-rock, squeezendelemon, susko, J.J., or me know asap and it will be replaced. Please, save your money, and do not replace our hardware with your hardware in Muir.

Rick

[andy_lemon]

Sounds like an interesting book. What is the reasoning behind putting loctite on quicklinks? I know alot of people do this, then again alot of people don't. If they are wrench tight then they are not coming loose... on the flip side, if someone was smart enough to bring an open end wrench to steal them, they would surely pack a lighter. Just curious.

thanks,
A.

[allah]

damn thats a lot of typing, im not use to seeing that much typing and it be serious

[weber]

Sounds like an interesting book. What is the reasoning behind putting loctite on quicklinks? I know alot of people do this, then again alot of people don't. If they are wrench tight then they are not coming loose... on the flip side, if someone was smart enough to bring an open end wrench to steal them, they would surely pack a lighter. Just curious.

thanks,
A.

Loctite is merely an added step to ensure they don't loosen up. Not too worried about theft. Quick links aren't much good to anyone but route developers. It takes more heat than a lighter can provide to break the bond. A small torch is necessary.

Rick

[weber]

damn thats a lot of typing, im not use to seeing that much typing and it be serious

This is Liz Weber here.

I thought the same thing. You ask my husband the time and he tells you how to build a watch.

And you should see the hydraulic paraphernalia for testing bolts spread all over the basement floor. He's a hoot to live with!

-L

[allah]

i bet

[weber]

Liz again.

Rick just took me to task for maligning his “good reputation” on this forum. OK. The truth, guys. MOST engineers, if you ask them what time it is, will proceed to tell you how to build a watch. Hey, we can’t help it; that is just the way we are.

Rick, on the other hand, takes it a step further. After he gets done telling you how to build a watch, he proceeds to give you a discourse on the history of horology. (No, that is not what it sounds like. Not nearly so interesting. Horology is the study of timekeeping.)

[quicksilver]

Rick,
Eric Ulner who owns Drapers Bluff in Southern Il. Has extensively used glue ins.
Interestingly enough just as I thought of e-mailing you that info. I noticed that he is
the newest registered user on this forum. He is very knowledgeable and has bolted hundreds if not thousands of climbs. Good source.
Later, Mike Thurston

[Saxman]

My experience with a couple of friends who are gifted engineers is that after they tell you how to build the watch, the history of man's attempts to measure time, and the how the space time continuum works, they then look at their wrist and realize they didn't put their watch on that morning.

[kato]

You ask my husband the time and he tells you how to build a watch.

Hey weber,
Sink your teeth into this!
http://www.betrisey.ch/
M.