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ro 12a
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2005 3:22 am
by rockstar
so what's with ro being a 12 now? i thought it was only like 11c or something? and then only if you're mentally retarded and have a broken wrist.
argue sporties, argue!
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2005 3:50 am
by J-Rock
Who cares? Just climb it.
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2005 5:57 am
by Yasmeen
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2005 12:00 pm
by Zspider
J-Rock wrote:Who cares? Just climb it.
I care. I'm hot to redpoint a 12, and I'm planning on hauling my butt up that route this season and if it's a 12, that's just that much better.
ZSpider
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2005 12:35 pm
by Wes
If your ego needs it to be 5.12, then you should call it 5.12. Otherwise, it is just .11d. Check out porter and snyders guide for some more resonable ratings of other classics.
Personally, I would care more about being able to climb a *real* 5.12(13, etc) then a soft one.
Wes
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2005 12:54 pm
by Zspider
Wes wrote:
Personally, I would care more about being able to climb a *real* 5.12(13, etc) then a soft one.
Wes
Haha! I'm a "soft" sorta guy anyway, so I'll leave the "real" climbs for the real men.
I also plan on doing Stay the Hand, around the corner. I've been told by two people who have pulled both that Stay the Hand is easier than Ro.
ZSpider
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2005 1:02 pm
by Wes
It just comes down to if you want to climb 5.12 or a 5.12. If you just want the number, there are easier routes out there then Stay or Ro that have that number.
Wes
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2005 2:29 pm
by Zspider
Wes wrote:It just comes down to if you want to climb 5.12 or a 5.12. If you just want the number, there are easier routes out there then Stay or Ro that have that number.
Wes
I would be interested in hearing what those are. I picked Ro as a project for several reasons. The first reason is that it is entry level 12. The second reason is that it plays to my strong point, which is straightforward apehanging on overhanging rock. Another reason is location. It's something that I am going to have to work, so easy access is a big plus, and weather is less a factor, too.
I'm not a very confident climber. Psychologically I doubt my ability to do the climbs, and the doubt works against me on the rock. If I can find something that has a big grade, and I can work it and get it done, then it gives me confidence and determination on the easier ones. After hauling my butt up Fuzzy Undercling I got a lot more agressive about filling in the 10s. If I can waddle my ass up even the lamest 12, then I think it will give me a psychological advantage when filling in the 11s. And that is why I want to climb "a" 12.
ZSpider
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2005 2:35 pm
by Wes
I, personally, feel these routes are soft for 12a. Your milage may vary...
Check your grip
Buddha hole (my first 12a, but I don't think it is nearly as hard as stay, and thus, should be .11d)
Hardcore Jollies
And, from what I have heard, Wild, yet tasty could be added to the list.
Wes
Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2005 2:37 pm
by Meadows
Zspider wrote:
I also plan on doing Stay the Hand, around the corner. I've been told by two people who have pulled both that Stay the Hand is easier than Ro.
Yup, I agree, but that all depends on whether you can muscle that move at the beginning.