RRC Archives

Anyone done it? Sounds cool.

It looked cool.I did After the Fact next to it anda few other routes there.I thought they all were alot harder than rated.Nickle Night would be a 9 anywhere else.After the fact felt like a 6.I went up there to do Eye of the Storm but passed it twice.It must be above a bunch of green boulders.andmaybe its really a 10. Oh yea,Blue Bellied Lizard is neat as hell,just really hard to get to.

If I'm remembering the rumors correctly there has been an infamous rap off of PDN. Ask Johnny, he might remember.

Yeah, that's the one. If you see my water bottle with a sling around it, put it in a museum.

Holy crap Batman! I heard that story,but did not know it was you John.

You rapped off your water bottle?? LOL, Can I hear this story?

Just young and dumb. I didn't have any big gear left when I got to the hard part and needed to bail. I happened to have a Nalgene water bottle with me with a sling taped around it. I lobbed the water bottle in a big crevice or behind some boulders (can't remember which), threaded the rope through the sling (don't want to lose a biner!) and rapped. It worked.
To keep this in perspective, you should know that by that time in my climbing career I had already rapped off of carabiners stuffed in cracks, knots of slings jammed in cracks, horns, boulders, twiggy trees, logs, tiny wires, chockstones, gear slings, 8-rings in cracks, and anything that was already "fixed".
I guess it's those kind of things that make me not worry too much about loose bolts, worn anchors, frayed slings, etc.

Private Duty Nurses is one of those guidebook routes that needs the size of the tree revisited. When hackworth wrote in his guide that it had a small tree, that was 20 years ago... it's now quite large... similarly, Carnivorous has a fairly substantial tree behind it.

Ahh JB those are things that only a future guidebook author like yourself should be worrying about.

I cann't believe you guys climbed those routes. jeez, you guys love your Red River Trad. I didn't see anything when I was up there.....But there was that big ass boulder.hhmmm. Has anybody ever climbed the boulder right behind Diana-Mo-Hum?