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An old timer friend of mine from southern California used to say that one of the reasons he liked climbing so much was because it gave him an excuse to hang out with his buds (human and herbal) and talk about shoes. Unlike he or his saying, I do not enjoy sitting around talking about shoes. However, to someone outside looking in it may appear as though I do, as I spend a fair amout of time doing so.

I realize shoes don't do the climbing. However, the right shoe is important (the left one comes in handy too). I started climbing when I was 44. I am 51 now. I have a longer second toe. I started with the board lasted Ace. I then went to the Mythos which I still wear. I have tried many different shoes over the years. My friends love it when I get a new pair of shoes. Usually I wear them for a couple of weeks, decide they are not right and then pass them along at a greatly reduced price. I then relax back into my Mythos. I have wore out several pairs of Mythos, each resoled several times. Mythos work great most of the time. There are cases when Mythos do not work so well.

I was at the Red for two weeks this fall. I was having a hard time finding my groove. This european gal happened to see me flailing one day. She was honest and forward enough to tell me that my footwork stunk and that I should get a real pair of boots. Strange. I did not take offence. Something clicked. I was carying a pair of Acopa icampas (too small) in case my Mythos blew out. I immediatly started wearing the icampas. The next day I redpointed a 5.11a and onsighted a 5.11c. I have not went back to the Mythos.

The icampas wore out very quickly. Acopa no longer makes the icampa and has agreed to give me a new pair of B3s free. I don't hold much hope for the B3. The icampa was not the perfect shoe either.

The bottom line(s):
longer second toe.
toes are long
feet are low volume.
Mythos fit perfect, but, have limitations.

I am sure that I am not the only one in this situation. Have any of you Mythos people found other shoes that work.

Bernie

I wear a pair of mythos and I'm just not wild about them. I have trouble keeping my feet on wee little foot holds with these shoes (although I will admit that poor footwork is probably part of the problem). I want some Muiras or the slip on version of them (I can't remember the name).

I've always worn Mythos too. Have a pair of "Focus" also by Sportiva but rarely wear them. Thought they would make a good all-arounder type of shoe but hardly ever put them on.
Just picked up a pair of Miuras...notice a Sportiva theme here?... I really notice an improvement in my footwork with the Miuras.

I've only worn Mythos. I have been convinced that part of my poor footwork is the shoe that I'm wearing. So, I have tried in vain to find a shoe that fits. None do. Not even close. I don't understand it. I would love to wear those archy, pointy, kermit the frog shoes...but it's painful and as soon as I try to climb with them, it's unbearable. I wish I could.

Well, then came Tony. He onsights 12's in, you guessed it, Mythos.
He also wears those kermit the frog shoes, but it really just depends on which shoes he pulls out of the bag first.

Part of the reason people find the Mythos to be comfortable may be the fact that they have a leather upper & thus will tend to stretch to fit your foot? You might want to try the Sportiva Cobra since they also have a leather upper & are slip lasted? I have had three pairs of Miuras but recently bought a pair of Cobras for gym climbing. They seem to be a great shoe for the price.

Part of myproblem with the shoes is that I don't "trust" the mythos and so it becomes harder tfor me to have good footwork. I want some pointy kermit shoes. At least they would help the mental part of climbing. Can't help the weak, out of shape part.

I found that the cobra didn't stay on my heel

after my first pair of shoes which were mythos I moved on to 5.10 Moccasyms and now have a new pair of Moccasyms and a pair of Montrail Zealot's that I'm trying to break in...i will say that there have been a few offers to buy my mythos from me bc they are still in relatively good shape...but there's no way that I would part from them...

Thanks for all your comments.

I also have friends that climb 5.12 in Mythos. And, yes, they seem to climb 5.12 in what ever shoes they happen to be wearing. I admire their talent.

I will always have a pair of Mythos. They feel so good. I always get them resoled with Stealth rubber. The problem is standing on little nubbins and edges. When the resole is fresh there seems to be no problem. However, in just a very short time I must smear instead of stand on little things.

I've heard people with narrow feet LOVE mythos. Fortunately, my foot is shaped like a ping pong paddle. So, I can wear muiras or anasazis. I love them both.

I assume that the Mythos discussed here by women climbers is the women's version of the Mythos (light green color). They are made a bit different than the regular Mythos to (generally) fit women's feet better -- narrower in the back part of the foot and lower in back to accomodate lower ankle bones.

Because I'm one of those oddball males with a very narrow foot, I thought I had died and gone to heaven when I discovered the women's Mythos. That is, from a comfort point of view. Very comfortable for all day multi-pitch stuff. Because I climb only up through soft 11's, they work fine for me. (It would take a whole lot more than just a different shoe for me to climb at higher grades.)

Ditto the comment about resoling with stealth rubber. Seems to work better on little stuff.

Rick