RRC Archives

This post contains directions to Willie's Wall, Brighton Rock, Symphony Wall, and Jazz Rock. These directions are a little more specific than those found in "Red River Gorge Climbs" by John Bronaugh. The directions that are currently provided in the on-line guidebook start you out at the wrong parking area.

As with most obscure trad crags, these areas are seldom visited so the "trails" and old logging "roads" are vague and overgrown. A topographical map and some experience with finding such crags will be very helpful. Without those two prerequisites, plenty of time and energy or a lot of luck might get you there.

Please help preserve the feeling of adventure and (relatively) untouched wilderness that obscure little crags like these embody.


Willie's Wall

Travel Forest Service Road 9B to a left bend in the road near a popular, semi-developed car camping area. This is also where most people park to climb at Muscle Beach by walking across the gated concrete ford (not the concrete ford that is open to traffic). Park in this area and locate the campsite that is on the inside of the left bend in the road (mentioned above).

From the left edge of this campsite, a vague trail heads left and up the hill via an old logging road. The logging road levels off and crosses a gully. Immediately after the gully, locate a second logging road which switches back steeply up the hill. As you near the top of the hill, you will see Willie's Wall on the left. Willie's Wall faces the east.


Brighton Rock

Brighton Rock is the next spur west of Willie's Wall. For the most direct approach, follow the approach to Willie's Wall, but instead of turning right onto the second logging road, stay on the first logging road. This road continues level along the hillside for some distance before turning uphill through a gap in the lower cliff band. After passing through the lower cliff band, head left to the point of rock and locate the first route (Brighton Rock 5.7) on the east face.

To get to Brighton Rock from Willie's Wall, just go to the left end of Willie's Wall and around the corner. A short hike (a few hundred feet)through the woods will get you there. Hike directly to the next buttress, staying well downhill from the chossy cliffline that seperates the two buttresses.


Symphony Wall

Symphony Wall is the next point of rock a couple hundred yards NW of Brighton Rock. From Brighton Rock, walk a few feet down the hill to an old logging road that traverses the hillside. Follow this in a northerly direction. The old road eventually fades to vague deer trail which leads to Symphony Wall near Boogered. Symphony Wall faces south.


Jazz Rock

Jazz Rock is an island of rock located along the Pistol Ridge system. From Symphony Wall, walk 200 feet SW along the ridge top to the next outcrop of rock.


A note on "alternative" or "more direct approaches": Those tend to be more steep and thus more prone to erosion. Those alternatives might be better utilized only as reference points to help you locate the crags on a topographical map. The climbers who "developed" the crags made many trips into the area via various routes and chose the approaches described above as the easiest and most durable.

thanks for the directions!

This is a fairly scenic hike/semi-bushwack. We saw several wild turkeys out near Jazz Rock in early November in addition to deer markings (also known as deer poo).

This discription to Muscle Beach is also wrong in the online guide and in Bronaugh's guide. If you follow these directions you will end up on the wrong side of the valley.

"Drive 1.4 miles down County Road 1067 from the steel bridge on KY 77 (1.2 miles from the Long Wall parking area). The gravel road changes to asphalt at the Menifee and Powell county line. About a mile farther is a farmhouse and barn on the left and a gravel road on the right (Forest Service Road 9). Turn down that road and proceed 1.1 miles and cross a bridge. This brings you to the intersection of 9A and 9B. Drive 1.5 miles down 9B after it's intersection with 9A. Park in a small pull-off on the right. Cross the East Fork of Indian Creek to the east of the parking area via the concrete dam and ford. Immediately turn right and follow a dirt road for about 150 yards or so and look for a trail that ducks off to the right. Take this trail uphill and eventually you'll wind up back on the logging road. Follow this road until it levels out. Ignore the first road that branches off uphill to the right. Follow the road as it switches back to the right. After you cross a couple of "speed bumps" going uphill, leave the road for a trail that heads off to the left and uphill. Follow this faint trail which will probably bring you up directly beneath the huge roof of Close Encounters With a Wench"



If you follow the guide from the beginning...once you cross the concrete dam/ford and make an immediate right....there is a trail that ducks off to the left probably within 300ft. I dont recall if the rest of the directions are right or not from this point because it was a while ago and I finally found it in the winter. But going left important...because if you just keep making right turns you won't end up on the correct side of the valley.

Note, Muscle beach is south facing and you can see the end of the exposed cliff from the parking area even in the summer....if you are not heading that direction...you are going the wrong way.

If anyone who has been there recently and has better directions with full foliage, feel free to add on

Don't mind steep. Its good for the calves.

Muscle Beach:
Cross the concrete ford. Hike right along the old road staying to the left. At an open clearing and a downed tree, look for a trail left through the dead tree. Follow the old logging road up to the left, past one right angling fork to the second. Take the second right angling fork up to a T. You should see some boulders above the old road. Hike straight up the hill to the corner of the cliff. All (most of) the routes are to the right around the corner.

I liked it better when all the noobs got lost and gave up finding my obscure places.

I liked it better when all the noobs got lost and gave up finding my obscure places.

I don't think you have to worry about a mad rush of people to the Jazz Rock area.

Hey, I'm bringing two busloads of Downs Syndrome kids to climb at Jazz Rock next weekend. I hope that doesn't inconvenience anyone. Oh, and we'll be having a bonfire right up against the rock to roast the kids that fall. Free beer!

ynot wrote:I liked it better when all the noobs got lost and gave up finding my obscure places.

Amen ynot, amen.

I really have gotten spoiled.Me and Dwayne usually have the whole crag to ourselves.