So I ordered some gear...

Post by **Alan Evil** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 2:32 am

...and half of it will arrive tomorrow and half on Thursday. Tomorrow I'm going to be in the Gorge so I won't have any of it. Boo hoo.

One thing that's on the way is a set of Wild Country nuts (I forgot to order a nut tool! D'OH!). What are some good routes for me to learn these things on? I can lead 5.9 sport on a good day. I've only led some kind of 5.2 ladder trad. I do love working cracks.

Post by **J-Rock** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 2:34 am

Go to Fortress Wall.

Post by **ynot** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 2:42 am

Casual Viewing eats nuts. Five finger Discount(sort of heady for a noob)
Calypso2 goes all passive.

Post by **Steve** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 3:41 am

...sorry about your luck.

Post by **512OW** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 3:58 am

Nearly every crack in the red eats nuts.

Post by **ynot** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 4:08 am

Depends on how big your nuts are.

Post by **Alan Evil** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 4:22 am

Right! So...

How big?

...

I'm thinking I'll just carry a collection of rocks with runners wrapped around them and I'll drive them into the crack with a hammer.

Post by **J-Rock** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 4:24 am

Many many years ago climbers used heavy nuts that they found along railroad tracks for protection in cracks.

Post by **Alan Evil** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 5:07 am

Yeah! Railroad nuts! With a hammer!

[passes out]

Post by **tomdarch** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 5:43 pm

If I remember right, I'd be reasonably happy leading Father and Son (5.7) with only nuts. I'd want a double set, though. (Mwahahaha! More gear!) Plus, F&S has proper anchors at the top, so you'll be able to rig and clean it like any sport route.

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... php?id=625

Also, I learned a ton by clean aiding on gear. It's too complicated to explain here, but I really learned a lot by placing gear over my head, trusting it enough to get on it, then inspecting it from eye-level and above while weighted.