Page 1 of 1

Sport Climbs that Stay Dry

Posted: Fri Sep 27, 2002 2:09 am
by Steve
Hey all, I'm new to the board. My friends and I were wanting to come down for the killer sport climbing this weekend. I was wondering with all the rain from TS Isidore and all if there were any places that had dry sport routes. My buddy leads up to 5.8 and I'm pretty comfortable at 5.6. We're looking for some fun slabs that might be dry.
Thanks Bros!

Posted: Fri Sep 27, 2002 2:12 am
by ray
You freakin' idiot there are no sport climbs in the red!
:x

Posted: Fri Sep 27, 2002 2:16 am
by Steve
Good answer! I was testin' ya'll to see how you would react when Johnny Sport Climber from Michigan posted.

Posted: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:41 pm
by Andrew
thats funny as hell

Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 7:02 am
by merrick
Dear Steve,

I am glad you are excited about coming down to the red. it is a great place.

there are two ways routes get wet here. one is from rain, the other from humidity and temperature changes making the rock sweat.

There are many overhanging areas that don't get wet in the rain here. Check out the motherload and parts of roadside and torrent falls. if those routes seem to hard just go to dip wall and free solo the trad routes to the anchors then clip and lower down. it will help your mental game when you are high above a bolt on a sport route.

For areas that sweat you want exposed rock that gets lots of airflow. often times these areas are not overhanging. look for aretes and consider free soloing multi-pitch trad becuase that second pitch will surely be dry.

if it is raining and the rock is sweating then your options are limited. overhanging and exposed areas are not too common. i suggest gonig to the tens wall at roadside and getting in line. if the climbs are to hard for one of you to do. just try to yo-yo them or just spend hours working the moves below where your stick-clip can reach. since you probably waited for an hour to get on one of these climbs, it is your right to spend as much time as you want on them.

Just don't forget to enjoy climbing in the red while in the rain in the rain. I am sure you will find plenty of climbs to work on.

Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 8:07 pm
by Steve
Rad dude, thanks for all that killer beta. I can't wait to get out and try some of that 2nd pitch trad free soloing stuff you mentioned. Is there anywhere I can get book about that stuff?