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Dave the dude is a badass!
Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 2:54 am
by roots
Today I went to Skybridge and hopped on Dave the dude which gave me a thorough rogering. Does anyone of you hard ladies or gents have some beta for the 5th to 6th bolt? I had my left hand in a little mono/two finger pocket and right on a small crimp further to the right. All the while trying to get on to the flake to reach a distant jug on the flake. As for the feet, I stemmed my left out onto a nub on the flake and trying to bump my right up. It's been a long time since I've taken a beating on an .11...completely unprepared.If anyone has some beta on this humbling route, it would be much appreciated. Advice for someone who hasn't been on it? Get on it! It's totally rad 8). Mucho mahalos.
Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 3:48 am
by longlegsrule
um...you had rough sex with the route? did you mean rouging?
sorry couldn't resist...
Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 4:09 am
by Horatio Felacio
leave him alone longlegsrule! he just asked a simple fucking question and you had to make fun of it. you need to just let it go every once in a while.
roots, here's what i do: somewhere to the left of the jug on the flake is a decent pocket (possibly the mono you were talking about?). you need to sidepull this with your right hand, back step your left foot on a pretty good edge, and just reach on over to the jug. that route is bad ass! good luck my friend!
Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 1:41 pm
by longlegsrule
Horatio Felacio wrote:leave him alone longlegsrule! he just asked a simple fucking question and you had to make fun of it. you need to just let it go every once in a while.
just wanted to know how he's been climbing routes that's all
Posted: Thu Nov 04, 2004 2:18 pm
by air canada
Stemming out like that didn't work for me either-I found some good feet that were up a little higher, just a little tricky to get on them (not powerful), but I could reach up casually to the 'jug'. Its a sweet route.
Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2004 12:54 am
by roots
Thanks to Ho and Air Canada. The beta sounds good, now all I have to do is find a day when I can get back to the route. I hadn't really climbed at Skybridge before, maybe twice when I first started climbing. Almost every climb I've been on there is unique compared to other climbs I've done. Don't know why I ever overlooked this cliff. thanks.
Longleg...sex with routes? Um like for sure. Why in the hell do you think I was talking about the mono/two finger pocket. Just think about the friction. As for how I climb? Much like a little nancey-boy and spanks to you too.