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Route name/grade??

Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 10:03 pm
by John E
Does anyone know the name and grade of a sport climb located 20 feet to the left (when looking at the wall)of Scooby Doo and Scooby Snack at Oil Crag? It's got an overhang about 20 feet up and another small overhang 35 feet up.

:?: :?:

Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 10:08 pm
by SCIN
Directly right of a big roof crack?
Intermezzo 5.11b

Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 10:13 pm
by Jeff
How about the sport route another hundred feet left of that, just left of the rock-house that has the crack in the rear of it.
Starts overhanging then heads up and over?

Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 10:15 pm
by Johnny
If you're talking just left of Scooby Snack around a small corner and starts in a nest of rhodos, I think its Shaggy and goes at about 10a. It still needs some serious brushing so I'd skip it until some bozo goes up there with a brush.

Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 10:31 pm
by Johnny
Jeff, that one's Hooky Pals 5.8 and is pretty fun, but there's a bunch of iffy holds on it. After enough gumbies get on it, it should clean up nicely. The anchors are safe, but no rap rings yet, just a bogus biner or something.

Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 10:32 pm
by Jeff
Really? The start looked a little harder than 5.8.

Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 10:41 pm
by Dwayne
I got on shaggy Saturday. Your right, the route is pretty rough after the overhang. The wasps up there are as big as your head. The overhang was cool though.

Posted: Wed Nov 13, 2002 3:37 am
by deleted username
Hooky Pals start is right at 5.8 and then 5.8 scare factor after that... the moves are never hard, but neither is the rock.

Posted: Wed Nov 13, 2002 5:25 pm
by Johnny
Ooh JB! That sounded like a good route description for a guidebook!

Posted: Wed Nov 13, 2002 5:28 pm
by deleted username
yeah, somebody should write that down.