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Up Yonder and Centerfire
Posted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 12:16 am
by Zspider
Up Yonder whooped hell out of me this weekend. Couldn't even pull some of the moves. Some huge holds that were flat as hell. Gonna be a long time before I can do that one. On the other hand, that 11 to the left of Bandolier (Centerfire?) felt entirely doable. Just gotta hold on and shuffle through some smaller holds above the sixth bolt. The bottom was soggy, but the upper part was dry.
Thanks to whoever left the draws on it. It encouraged me to give it a shot.
ZSpider
Posted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 2:07 pm
by Wes
See, I did up Yonder pretty quick compared to centerfire, which I haven't done yet. Yonder is just about getting the right beta, milking a couple *rests*, and firing the crux.
Wes
Posted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 3:52 pm
by air canada
Yonder is beta intensive-figure out what holds you want and fire it out. I find centerfire one of those routes I do a little differently each time, and feel desperate each time going around the lasat bolt.
Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 2:29 am
by SikMonkey
Hell yeah, that last bolt is some scary stuff pullin up onto that slab from a nice gently overhung face. Slab sux, but Centerfire is still all about resting the whole way up.
Mj
Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 7:08 pm
by goodguy
Centerfire is all about left hand lock off, SKIP the bad shit and REACH to the big jugs. 8)