Sanctuary sandbag

Post by **Zspider** » Sat Sep 25, 2004 1:49 pm

Down to the right of Sanctuary there's a 10a called Bad Company that T-bone put up and it's a beautiful climb. Further bushwhacking to the right brings you to a rock ledge at the base of a dihedral with the right wall bolted. Greg Martin put this up and was kind enough to hang a toprope on it for Gary and I. Greg said it was 10c or something like that. It's pretty much vertical and there are some tricky sequences. I thought it was more like 11a/b. After all the overhanging hauls, this climb was a thought-provoking treat. I recommend both climbs.

ZSpider

Post by **goodguy** » Sat Sep 25, 2004 5:31 pm

One question:

Did Greg fall on this route while hanging the TR?
If so then I would say your assumption of the sandbag is probably right on!

BUT..... Maybe Greg is just nursing some strange injury that just happens to show up every time a route is giving him troubles, or is that, a route gives him troubles when the injury shows up?

Post by **Spray Lord** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 2:29 pm

10d my ass! That mother F-er's 11a!

Post by **Spoonman** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 7:45 pm

I flashed the two cruxes first go and then broke a hold near the top. I came right back down and did it second go? I do have a tweeked shoulder and it has slowed me down. I kinda thought it might be harder than 10d, but I do not climb a lot of pure vertical stuff. The day I fell on it was the first weekend back climbing in about 6 weeks so.......10d/11a ......whats the difference? pretty fun route though, and it does stay dry.

Post by **Joe Finney** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 7:51 pm

I think it was 11b

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Mon Sep 27, 2004 10:17 pm

you're a faggot joe finney. colorado piece of shit.

Post by **J-Rock** » Tue Sep 28, 2004 2:59 am

Why do people squabble so much about ratings? What difference does it make if a route is 10c, 10d, 11a, 11b? Just have fun and climb whatever looks good or interesting at the time. Every route is different, climbers are different, conditions are different, and ratings are so subjective anyway. At best they are just an estimated guess. I don't understand why people get so caught up arguing back and forth if something is 10a or 10b. Who fucking cares?

Post by JR » Fri Oct 01, 2004 5:38 pm

The route is closer to 11c than 10c. I thought the route was awful.

Post by **dhoyne** » Fri Oct 01, 2004 9:33 pm

...and it's dirty too!

(j/k, I'm just stroking J-Rock!)

Post by **J-Rock** » Tue Oct 19, 2004 4:47 am

Yeah, we did finally climb this route: "Psyberpunk". It had a couple of thin reachy sections that felt like 5.11 moves. It may get easier with some cleaning and/or traffic. Not a soft 5.10 huh? We do our best to grade the routes as accurately as possible. This one will probably be updated to a 5.11 in the online guide.