I am a cheater
Posted: Thu Sep 23, 2004 7:54 pm
I am a no good, lousy cheater.
I set a problem on the wall. The movement is fun and hard. I figured it'd go at V4 or V5. I can't do the last move. I fall often on the moves getting to it. Those are probably V4 moves too. To finish, I have to swing over from two slopers onto a left foot, match on one of the slopers and then stand up on the foot reaching up and left for a jug a long way away. the sloper turns into a mantle, and I fall just short. to brace myself i stick a finger in a tnut hole, then gun for the jug. i can't do it.
and so i justify adding a hold. to make myself feel better i pick out the smallest little nothing that i can find, but it makes the problem go with little of the effort i'd been exerting to make it go without the hold.
I succeed, it's still V4, but no amount of justification will make me feel better about adding that hold. It's coming off tonight. I am a no good cheater.
I set a problem on the wall. The movement is fun and hard. I figured it'd go at V4 or V5. I can't do the last move. I fall often on the moves getting to it. Those are probably V4 moves too. To finish, I have to swing over from two slopers onto a left foot, match on one of the slopers and then stand up on the foot reaching up and left for a jug a long way away. the sloper turns into a mantle, and I fall just short. to brace myself i stick a finger in a tnut hole, then gun for the jug. i can't do it.
and so i justify adding a hold. to make myself feel better i pick out the smallest little nothing that i can find, but it makes the problem go with little of the effort i'd been exerting to make it go without the hold.
I succeed, it's still V4, but no amount of justification will make me feel better about adding that hold. It's coming off tonight. I am a no good cheater.