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Special K
Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2004 6:39 pm
by Huggybone
Awesome route. Loved it.
But, do you think it is full on 11c?
I was able to flash it on a toprope, and I havn't redpointed anything harder than 10c for almost a year.
What do you think? is it easy or did I just get lucky?
Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2004 6:45 pm
by squeezindlemmon
Try it on lead. The grade is an onsight grade; I TR'd it twice before the redpoint to figure out where the route goes and it felt different each time.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2004 6:49 pm
by alien2
!(
Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2004 6:51 pm
by SCIN
I thought it was an .11 for sure. You were just ON man! You were the ON MAN!
Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2004 6:53 pm
by Artsay
I remember it feeling pretty sustained. It's kinda vertical so the pump doesn't come into play as much like those 11's at Torrent. I would say it felt easier than those but it definitely was no cake walk either!
I think you should pat yourself on the back and consider it a great TR flash. Did you do those other 11's at the Indy Wall? Those are great too.
Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2004 11:15 pm
by J-Rock
Did you do the direct start? If not, it might feel easier. Also, when we first climbed it the route was wet, mossy, dirty, and there was plenty of loose and fragile rock. Karla spent several hours cleaning it and it became much easier and more aesthetic.
Posted: Wed Sep 22, 2004 6:46 pm
by Huggybone
J-Rock- yep I did the direct start: two opposing sidpulls to a one pad shelf. It is a foot or two to the right of the bolt, but I thought it was pretty direct.
Artsay- I got on Makin' bacon and Bitter ray of sunshine, but that's about it.
Also- is Karla the 59" drill bitch?
Posted: Wed Sep 22, 2004 7:15 pm
by squeezindlemmon
Huggybone wrote:Also- is Karla the 59" drill vixen?
My driver's license says I'm 5'-2"! Hmph!
*okay, so what if they forgot the "in denial" part?
Posted: Wed Sep 22, 2004 7:18 pm
by Wes
Go metric, then you are 150 cm!!
Wes