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Lady Slipper beta?
Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 5:53 pm
by Zspider
I want to try out a couple of the easy 10s at Lady Slipper, but I'm not sure how to get there. I read the directions in the online guide and it seems a bit vague, specifically when it says to park off to the side by some mud holes and then walk through a couple ravines.
Any beta on getting back to Lady Slipper? It sounds like a long hike. Is that so?
Also any beta on Kentucky Pinstripe and Loosen Up would be appreciated.
Thanks,
ZSpider
Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 5:57 pm
by lordjim_2001
The directions are good enough. Park at the same place as Emerald City. Once you get on a trail take right fork. You'll cross two streams in two gullies/ravines. It's not that long of a hike and no bushwhacking.
I'll give you beta on those routes as soon as I'm good enough to do them
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 6:17 pm
by Artsay
I don't know the mileage to the parking area (you can see Whiteout from the road, thoug) but once you park the trail is across the street. It's an easy trail and you shouldn't have any problems finding Global Village (where KY Pinstripe and Loosen Up are...I believe the whole wall is called Lady Slipper and the part closest to the road is Emerald City and the part farthest from the road is Global Village).
Once you find the trail there will be a bunch of side trails to go up left to Emerald City. Just stay on the main trail for about 10 minutes. After you cross a little trib, the trail will go up and around and you'll see the rock on your left/straight ahead. If you take the trail straight up it's kinda bouldery to get up to the cliffline and sorta scary. You can also take the trail around to the right and switch back to the rock face.
You'll see an obvious short crack, Father and Son, and KY Pinstripe is directly right of it (just right of the arete). To get to Loosen up, follow the trail past KY Pinstripe down a ways until you get to an impressive wall with a bouldery/rocky terrain. Loosen up, I believe, is the first one on the right side of the wall.
As for beta, I'd say the crux is low for KY Pinstripe (balancy) and about 12 ft up on Loosen Up (a short power move). They're both great routes. If you want more beta, PM me.
Have fun!
Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 6:20 pm
by Guest
going for the anchors on Loosen Up is also "fun"... 3 whippers worth for my sorry ass.
Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 6:52 pm
by Andrew
park near mile marker 4
Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 1:21 pm
by dhoyne
It's a bit of a long hike out to Emerald City. Especially in the mud with a full trad rack when it's hot & humid. But it's not that bad of terrain; just long.
Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 1:37 pm
by Zspider
Sandy wrote:
...going for the anchors on Loosen Up is also "fun"... 3 whippers worth for my sorry ass.
**************
Ah! So there's a crux at the very top? I guess if you gotta take a fall, that's the best place to be doing it.
ZSpider
Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 1:57 pm
by Guest
nah, I just suck. Though I have heard of one climber, a far better climber than I am, who fell upside down there...
Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 3:28 pm
by The Pirate
Ky. pinstripe is a great 5.10...use caution around the second and third bolt to avoid what could be a nasty fall...The route is bolted good but the crux is down low... Good Luck...also copper heads are known to hang out at the bottom of father and son, and pinstripe
Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 4:35 pm
by t bone
Dhoyne, Emerald City is the sport area on Lady Slipper which is 5 min hike, the long hike is Global village.