Gri-Gri teaches bad habits

Post by **SCIN** » Tue Sep 07, 2004 5:28 pm

For me at least.

I've only been using a Gri-Gri for a year now and decided this weekend to stop using it.

I found myself almost letting go of the brake hand while using an ATC because I was so accustomed to doing it with a Gri-Gri. I've done this twice so far and it scares the crap out of me.

This was enough to make me stop using it forever. It would be fine if I used it all of the time but I switch back and forth a lot between it and an ATC. It's like my mind went on auto-pilot or something with the Gri-Gri.

Has anyone else experienced this? Michelle said she has no problem with it. It could be my peanut sized monkey brain.

Post by **Meadows** » Tue Sep 07, 2004 5:41 pm

Nope, I've seen others do it.

Post by **Power2U** » Tue Sep 07, 2004 5:46 pm

Ray,

I agree... when switching back and forth between a gri-gri and an ATC you have to have a brain bigger than a pea

Gri-gri (Which by the way is French for lazy

) teaches bad habits.... it is easy to let go of the rope and not worry about it. I definitely have to use extra attention when belyaing a trad route and using an ATC... which I preferr to do as it gives a softer catch by letting rope slide through the device a little bit before stopping the climber thus being a little softer/ more dynamic on the gear. However, I always use a gri-gri while belaying a sport climb as holding someone with an ATC while they rest or work out a move on a sport climb is a pain in the @$$. With an ATC I am not nearly as patient. "Are you ready yet... start climbing.. today would be good!" Back when I started climbing and Gri-gri's didn't exist... (How did you survive..some might ask???) we used to wrap the rope around our waist or leg when someone was hanging so we didn't get pumped out holding the rope.

Often times I'll bring a gri-gri and an ATC on a multi pitch climb and use the ATC to lead belay and the gri-gri when I am bringing up the second... this definitely requires extra attention and caution.

The moral of the story is that when you belay someone you have a large part of their safety and life for that matter in your hands and need to do what you are comfortable with. Don't be afraid to say no thanks to someone who volunteers to belay you who you don't know and also don't be afraid to pass when someone asks you for a belay on a climb you would preferr not to be a part of.

WHAT AN EPIC WEEKEND!

Question of the day: "What does ATC stand for?"

Post by **rhunt** » Tue Sep 07, 2004 5:55 pm

answer: Air Traffic Controler

Post by **Zspider** » Tue Sep 07, 2004 6:00 pm

I don't like letting go of the rope with the brake hand even with a Grigri, but when a climber starts pulling rope for a clip, I can't feed it fast or smooth enough to keep from short-roping the climber, and I find it necessary to drop the rope, grab the device with my brake hand, and feed rope with the other. Do the Grigri directions tell you to do this?

ZSpider

Post by **lordjim_2001** » Tue Sep 07, 2004 6:14 pm

Zspider wrote: when a climber starts pulling rope for a clip, I can't feed it fast or smooth enough to keep from short-roping the climber, and I find it necessary to drop the rope, grab the device with my brake hand, and feed rope with the other.

That's what I don't like about a Gri-Gri. It's a wonderful device for TR but I won't belay someone on lead with one. I hate short-ropin'.

Post by **captain static** » Tue Sep 07, 2004 6:28 pm

I've never switched from the ATC. Tried the gri-gri a few times but had the same problem feeding rope to the leader. To me the belay action with the ATC is automatic. I always work to focus on the leader & my position when belaying. The worst fall situations I have heard about / seen on sport have been going for the anchors. No matter what the device, if you are standing too far away from the rock and/or feeding out too much slack for the anchor clip you are asking for trouble.

Post by **Power2U** » Tue Sep 07, 2004 6:32 pm

rhunt wrote:answer: Air Traffic Controler

And rhunt wins a prize!

My crystal ball says you will send 8-Ball this Fall.

Post by **GWG** » Tue Sep 07, 2004 6:43 pm

I've only seen it once where the climber took a fall and the person belaying them with a gri gri was pulled up to the first clip. The gri gri was pulled against the bolt and held open. Fortunately, the belayer had enough sense to hold onto the tail of the rope and not drop the climber.

Unfortunately, there are gyms that won't allow anything but a gri gri to be used whether it is for top rope or lead climbing.

GWG

Post by **rhunt** » Tue Sep 07, 2004 6:43 pm

Power2U wrote:
rhunt wrote:answer: Air Traffic Controler
And rhunt wins a prize!

My crystal ball says you will send 8-Ball this Fall.

Sweet! Dude what else does the crystal ball say?