Route Development Recognition

[SCIN]

Do you all feel that the person who bolted a route should have their name featured in the description of a route? The person who bolted a route doesn't always get the first ascent (free climb on lead first). Sometimes they give it up to another person and other times they simply just can't send it. Should they still have their name attached to the route description in a guidebook (such as Developer: Joe Blow FA: John Blow) or is it just wasted space?

[J-Rock]

I don't think it is necessary for the bolter to have their name featured in the description. If they want their name listed then they should lead the route. It seems that the standard protocol is to list the first ascentionists (occassionally I see mention of the person who equipped the route, but this does not seem to be common practice). I do know that ALL of the route developers at Muir have bolted routes there and given first ascents away to friends and others who have helped in the process.

[SCIN]

I noticed that the RRGCC started doing this with thered.org. They had the person who equipped the route listed as "Route Author: Joe Blow". I'm not sure how I feel about that.

[haas]

I don't think it is necessary to list the bolter's name, although I could see an exception being a long time project the bolter never sent and someone else gets the first ascent. When that much time and effort goes into the project maybe a little credit will ease the pain of not sending. It's hard to say. I think most people that really want credit for the climb send it first and don't offer the first ascent to others. Those nice souls aren't in it for the glory, hence they probably don't care if credit is given for bolting or not.

[kclimb]

I don't know if there is a proper protcol or not, but I just like know who bolted it. Some routes I know I'll be able to do because the person that bolted it is really good and I can climb their routes. Other times I find that I have trouble with certain other routes all bolted by another person. Maybe this speaks more to my climbing ability, but I think if you've got the information it's nice to know. Not essential, of course. Either way I don't really care... if I want to climb it I'll work at it no matter who bolted it.

[Joe Finney]

helll ya. it takes money and time to bolt. Plus you can give credit to the responsible person and say thanks for the route development..

[Steve]

Some folks might like to know who put those bolts in the rock. For instance I might trust a Johny route because he had placed a lot of bolts and knew what he was doing. I might not trust a Steve route becuase that he hasn't placed a bolt in his life. Sometimes it might help in determining a grade, crux, clips, etc if you know who the person was who put the route up (sport/trad). Like if I saw where it was a Lurkist route I might not be as surpirsed if there was a loooooong reach to make a clip. Or an early Porter route at an obscure area might mean bedframe hangers. I think it is info that can go a lot further than just paying props to who equipped or put up a route. It might be wasted space to some, but to others it can be important beta. I wouldn't object to seeing this info in a guide, but probabbly wouldn't miss it either.

[bushwhacker]

Not a RRG local but it's a great place, you guys have it made...just list in the guide who helped develop the crag without giving individual route credit for bolting/FA's, in Europe they describe routes/areas as being "opened" and remain purposefully ambiguous about FA credit because so much work goes into the bolting that the FA is a foregone conclusion most of the time...the spirit of sport climbing is, really, who cares who did it before you, the question is can you do it.

[climbhigh]

On sport I think the person that bolted the route should get their name on it, or at least shared with the FA. They put the time and money into it. If its a high grade route I could see the FA wanting props, but whats the difference if you were the first or the 30th person up another 5.10c. On trad I thnk the FA deserves all the credit, even if someone else put the anchors up, its a different monster.

[The Pirate]

I think that the persons that did the work should get some kind of credit for their vision, not to mention the hard work and money that goes into the development of a route.