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Best feeling redpoint

Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 7:45 pm
by SCIN
Which route did you redpoint that gave you the best feeling of accomplishment? A route that you put so much sweat into and when you finally sent it you were reminded of why you love to climb so much.

For me it would have to be "Mr. Get It On Jones"

That crack had gone years without an ascent but many attempts. My friends and I had tried it a few years earlier only to get completely spanked and not even able to reach the top free. Then I came back a few years later to work it again. I left a rope on it and hit it each weekend at least once for about a month. The day I got it on toprope free I knew for sure it would go. When I sent that thing I felt like drinking a fifth of Jack. I think I may have. I hope I can reproduce that feeling again one day on some route.

What's YOUR story?

Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 7:56 pm
by squeezindlemmon
Left Ski Track - Tahquitz
Happy Hunting Grounds - Devil's Lake
Supercrack - New River

Out of the three though, I'd say it has to be Left Ski Track - my first trad lead. I led the crux pitch while Jared coached me every now and then yelling, "I think the yellow one will fit in there... no, the other yellow"... I was not familiar with the rack sizes and have never placed any gear before EVER, not even to practice. After setting up a hanging belay (not the best hanging belay :shock: ), and having safely belayed Jared to this spot... I would say, I felt so accomplished. :D

Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 7:57 pm
by Wes
For me, I think muscle shoals. That thing scared the hell out of me, and was super hard. I nearly puked when I crawled onto the ledge. Just a short, wide 5.8 and a crag no one goes to. Yet, it means more then the much higher rated climbs I have done.

I get that same vibe with bouldering as well sometimes. Did a problem at G'mom that gave me a strong buzz for a couple days..

Wes

Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 8:55 pm
by J-Rock
I've never really "projected" routes, instead I try to onsight everything. Sometimes I get lucky and onsight a 5.12. Those are probably the most satisfying redpoints (especially at New River) or 5.11 trad route onsights (rare for me these days).

Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 9:45 pm
by climbhigh
Most of my most my long term projects have been on boulder problems. Police Brutality at Rocktown for one, I spent at least 3 seasons on it, and can send on que now. But my favorite project on a rope or bouldering was Croc Block at Rocktown. In my mind its close to the perfect line, off the deck, great moves, and solid climbing the whole way. When I am in rope mode I dont project that much. I usually climb within my onsight range, pretty weak I know, but i get more out of walking up to something new and sending it.

Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 10:01 pm
by Artsay
My best feeling sport redpoint was probably Skin Flute because it was my first .12. I wanted it so bad and when it went I felt like I was floating on air.

For trad it's probably Brontosaurus because I just had so much freakin' fun on it. I've had head issues leading trad before but everything just vanished during that route. It was a joy ride. John's description is perfect for it: "All brawn, no brains."...or something like that...

Bouldering...
That would have to be Bum Boy at HP40. That thing kept me confused for the longest time and then I got it! Uuuuhhh, I haven't been able to repeat it, though. :?

Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 10:07 pm
by climbhigh
mmmmm Bum Boy, what a great line. But of course us tall people cheat on it according to Wes.

Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 10:36 pm
by Buster
Nicoderm. Bolted it, worked it a few times, sent.
By way of comparison 8-ball was a non-event for me. It took sooooo many tries eye quit counting and instead was counting ropes that eye had cooked on it.

Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 10:51 pm
by Horatio Felacio
which one you think is harder?

Posted: Sat Aug 28, 2004 1:02 am
by Buster
Hells, I don't know... I guess that for me 8-ball was harder or maybe it's just because of the style of the thing or the fact that I am big pussy. I have always been better at routes that weren't so sustained (like bouldering).