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i am now confident on sport climbs leading and would like to begin leadin trad (i have seconded trad climbs). what is a good trad rack for the red?

The most important thing is to get the gear that suits your particular tastes best. Climbing on other people's racks is a good way to find out what gear you like.

Here's what I would do:

BD Stoppers #4-12 (if you have no superstitions, buy the #13...I personally cannot understand why Black Diamond would ever put a piece of climbing gear on the market with a giant #13 on it.)

The first three tri-cams; pink (0.5), red (1), and brown (1.5)

The three biggest Wild Country curved hexes on sewn spectra runners.

Camalots .3, .4, .5, two #.75s , two #1s, two #2s, #3, #3.5, #4

If you can't afford the extra Camalots, pick up some more hexes in the medium sizes.

Good advice Legion. Why curved hexes?

i think they are a little friendlier to place and easier to find placements for when you have an irregular crack.

I agree with everything Legion said, except that I wouldn't go below .75 or maybe .5 in the BD Camalots. Go with either Metolius TCU's or Aliens in the smaller size range. I don't think the small BD Camalots are anything special even though I'm a believer in Camalots otherwise - I especially love my .75 since it's saved my ass at least 4 times. I love my TCU's for the smaller sizes, and can't hear enough about Wes falling on his.

Also, you probably have sport draws. For trad you'll need some longer draws for extending placements. The best I have found is to either trick-triple a shoulder length sling or double a 12 inch, add biners, and when you are climbing you can extend them where needed - with one hand if you set them up right. I use a wire on one end and a lightweight straight gate or locker on the other (BD something). If I could go back and do it again, all my solid gate and locker biners would have key locks, either Petzl's or the new BD Positrons. I also carry extra shoulder length runners and biners and a cordalette.

One piece of advice for leading trad that I think is overlooked more than not: Always make your first placement multi-directional. Even if it's before you ever get off the ground. This generally means 2 pieces, equalized - often 2 passive pieces. Set them up for both upward and downward pull. This will prevent your pro from zippering out if you fall. If you don't understand this, learn about building anchors and forces before leading any trad.

man, i would not waste your time with hexes if you got some cash. i bought three when i first started and used em till i got cams the same size. they're worthless pieces of shit if you ask me. definitely go to .5 on the camalots. no better cams that size. get metolius tcu's below that. the best way to learn leading trad is to go out and do it! good luck.

If I were to do it all over, here's what I would do

Nuts 4-13 (Iuse the #13 more than any other nut, cause the placements are obvious)

Some hexes, I like wild country best, But I own BD. I find I diddn't find any hexes too useful inthe red, as there are few placements that won't take a cam.

Tricams to the first blue size. I used these alot in the red.

Cams: Well, I still don't own any, I just use other peples. One set of BD, .75 to #3 is good unless you seek OW. But, there alot of cams out there that are quite good, weigh less, and cost less, and have sturdy trigger wires. About the only good thing about them is that everybody uses them, so its good to know the sizes. I'm about to puchase my fist set of cams, I'm buying wild country because they last so long, and are pretty light. But, for the Red, BD rules the roost.

Looking back, if you can afford it, it is worthwile to buy lightweight biners, at least for racking. And they arn't so expensive anymore. Several light, cheap biners can be found, particularly if you hunt around.

A bought Omegas D's from chester at an offer I couldn't refuse. They served me well, but they are not exactly a great biner. If you can afford your favorite stuff, it is worth the investment.


Oh, and get several 2 foot slings, like six or eight. Definitly worth having.

I'll second that. In the red, hexes are only good for bailing off stuff. Useless other than that.

Yeah, I have to admit I haven't even brought my hexes to the Red since Spring. I consider them bail gear now and took them to Moab. A climber I know suggested I make them into a wind chime.

Um, anyone want to buy a FULL set of BD wired hexes in pristine condition? Rarely been placed, never been fallen on!

Aliens all the way.
Buy the Black, Green, Yellow and Red.
From there go to .75 Camalots thru #4.5. Forget the #5 Camalot and get the #6 friend instead.
A set of BD Stoppers too.

Don't bother with hexes unless you're trying to be old fashioned. Just remember though, if you're going that way you had better buy some EB's, knickers and smoke a pipe while you climb.