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This past summer, a couple of guys introduced me to the idea of building foundations of a certain level before moving to the next. This past week, Monkey sent me a pyramid to follow which starts at a base of easy 11s and progresses to a 12. Although I sent a couple of 11s this past week, I want to add more hard 10s to the foundation layer and get ideas of 11s of routes at the Red and the New.

Has anyone else done this and can give me ideas?

They can be pretty cool, but the big problem, is that they are only vaid for a certian type of route. Like you could do one for steep routes, and that might help, but then you might not get on vert or slab type routes.

The way I kinda do things, is to pick a harder then your current level route. One that inspires you, and work it. Once you get it, then back fill the other routes below that grade that you haven't done. And most of all, just climb alot of different styles of routes, at all grades. That will really help develop a wide range of skills, which then helps you send harder routes at all angles.

Wes

Wes,
that is another way of going about it and that's actually my approach to advancing the grade, but most people want to have that foundation to "stand on". When you jump grades like you are talking about, you not only have a gap in the numbers, but you also have a gap in the skill set that it takes to climb higher grades. You will also spend an inordinate amount of time projecting one climb, where if you were to build up to it you would send it more quickly. In the end though it depends on your overall ability. If you are climbing 5.xa and all of a sudden you send 5.xd (not just "make it to the top" or "pull all the moves"), you were probably climbing way below your ability in the first place. As for the pyramid only being valid for one type of climb, you can fill it in with whatever you want, but my suggestion is to train specifically for the kind of climb you like to do.

Mj

True for sure. The thing about picking the harder line to work, is that you get stronger and better working that route, which then makes it easier to backfill the grades you "skipped". I think Horst says to pick a route a full number harder then you best onsite for redpoint projects. That seems like an OK guideline, but I think it should just be a line that inspires you, since you will be spending a lot of time on it.

I love all kinds of climbing, so I just climb whatever seems cool at the time. Balance is the key, otherwise you will end up only climbing one type of route, and once the thrill of the number chasing goes away, you will get burned out kinda quick.

Wes

I like the pyramid idea and it makes sense, but it has always been my style to just show up to hang out with friends and do whatever seems cool and whatever is at my ability. So goal setting just seemed too ambitious, but now it is just as fun (as long as I'm not being selfish with my climbing partners).

I want to mix up the climbing, I like it all. Should I set pyramids for each type of climbing?

The pyramid has quite a few climbs in it. Fill it primarily with whatever you are least successful at (for me, that's steep climbs), then add some others to round it out (technical slab, etc).

I like the "pyramid" method, as it gives me a goal of training, without letting my ego go crazy. That .xa to .xd jump Sik is talking about is probably referencing my send this weekend. Even with the leap in grade, I'm still looking forward to filling in the pyramid (even more so, actually) before I tackle my "goal".

Hell, if nothing else, consider all the cool climbs you'll breeze through.

BTW, good job on your send this weekend of Pulling Pockets, Rain Man. FANTABULOUS!!

Muchas gracias, senorita. It was cool to finally see you in person, too.

Considering my (and Sik's AND ender_xx's) personal record(s) pitch count(s) (30 pitches among the three of us), the send, chilling at A-Bees and seeing you finally, it was a pretty damn good day.

Hell yeah. It was great!

Mj

The pyramid concept is something discussed by Horst in his training books. Something he also discusses, but that I think is more overlooked, is the balance between redpoint and onsight attempts. Another thing to think about is training vs. fun days. Don't get too hung up on goals and training. It's OK to go out climbing with your friends and have fun doing whatever.