waterknots

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...
oddballdefiance
Posts: 36
Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2004 2:24 pm

waterknots

Post by oddballdefiance »

This happened a while back, but it is still fresh in my mind. One of my friends was hanging on a waterknot that was made using 1 inch webbing. These knots are supposed to be virtually impossble to come undone. The knot popped and he fell a couple of feet. I think that the tail wasn't long enough. I was curious if anybody has heard of this happening?
Why are you looking at me? You crazy!
marathonmedic
Posts: 1557
Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2004 3:01 am

Post by marathonmedic »

Anytime you don't "finish" your knots or leave sufficient tails, I'd think you're just asking for something to come untied.
oddballdefiance
Posts: 36
Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2004 2:24 pm

Post by oddballdefiance »

well you are supposed to leave a 2 inch tail on a waterknot and we thought we did. but, who knows, a momentary distraction can make you fall.
Why are you looking at me? You crazy!
haas
Posts: 694
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:06 pm

Post by haas »

I don't know how old your knot was, but water knots gradually work themselves loose over an extended period of time while under stress (weight), like slings left around trees as anchors forever
dhoyne
Posts: 1240
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2003 5:47 pm

Post by dhoyne »

I was just going to say what haas said. Waterknots will eventually work themselves loose. You have to remember to check for adequate amounts of tail (I suggest 2 inches) each time you use the webbing.
Sarcasm is a tool the weak use to avoid confrontation. People with any balls just outright lie.

[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
TradMike
Posts: 1173
Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 2:57 am

Post by TradMike »

Was the sling made out of Spectra? That would cause it to slip. A shock loaded Spectra water knot will come undone!
RQClimber
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 12:59 pm

Post by RQClimber »

There was a study that was done using 1 inch webbing with a water knot. (I might still have it at the gym). It showed that a water knot that was not finished actually moved a substantial amount over the course of continuous weight also through a series of falls.

Apparantly a water knot that was finished off on both ends with just a simple overhand knot, kept the water knot from moving a fair amount, but it still moved and over time came out.

If I can locate this study I'll post a link
RQClimber
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 12:59 pm

Post by RQClimber »

AHA! I found it...

http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing ... esting.pdf

A link to the study of the water knot and its failure rate as done by Tom Moyer.

Enjoy!
RQClimber
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 12:59 pm

Post by RQClimber »

In my search I also came across the "Beer Knot"...claims to be stronger than the water knot...although I have found nothing to support that claim. Interesting knot - Crazy Canyoneers!

http://www.canyoneering.com/gear/ties_beerknot.html

BTW, it took a bit to get the page to load but it eventually worked.
marathonmedic
Posts: 1557
Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2004 3:01 am

Post by marathonmedic »

Interesting. I wonder if it actually works as well as they say it does.
Ticking is gym climbing outdoors.
Post Reply