Sport doesn't suck

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Nov 04, 2002 1:48 am

(Sung to the tune of Root Boy Slim's "Dare to be Fat")
I love crack.
Crack is where it's at.
Having a ball, shoving limbs in the wall!
...

Okay, anyway.. I always say I hate sport, but damn I had a good time face climbing in the Southern Region today. By the way, what a gorgeous place! WOWEE!! (Well except for the oil rigs.) So, I have to say now that I really don't hate sport. In fact, I think I *gasp* like it! I've finally realized that sport requires a great deal more finesse with technique - a different technique - and when you figure out the right moves, it's very, very satisfying. (IT FEELS SO GOOD!) I'm told improving my face technique will help me on trad climbs, and I don't doubt it. I'm going to stop shying away from sport and try to get more variety in my climbing diet. (Thank you Sita, Hefe and Winterstorm!!)

How anyone can think that one type of climbing is better than another is beyond me. It's all good, it's just different.

Now if I can just get over my fear of clipping bolts (as opposed to plugging gear)..

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Nov 04, 2002 1:49 am

god I hope this post-climbing high buys me a few days of sanity!

Post by **Artsay** » Mon Nov 04, 2002 2:05 am

Cool Lynne! That area is most definitely beautiful and has some kick ass climbs for sure. I think I spent the last several weeks of the summer hiding out there. So pretty and lush...

I gotta agree with you that all kinds of climbing are awesome. Though I also gotta say that DAMN! have I been having fun feeling the moves of hand/fist stacks, using my shoulders, hips, and head to get through a crux. The different types of climbing are almost like different types of booze; Similar but each with a different kind of buzz.

Man, there's just so much climbing at the Red. What an amazing place.

Post by **ynot** » Mon Nov 04, 2002 2:57 am

Thats the best analogy I have ever heard,Artsay. Just like developing a taste for scotch you develop a taste for one style of climbing over another after time. I was also amazed at how pristene the southern region is after all the drilling that has happened there.Big brother deserves credit.

Post by **sita** » Mon Nov 04, 2002 4:12 pm

Sunday was pretty fun - What did you think of the 5.7 crack?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Nov 04, 2002 5:16 pm

aw, Sita, that crack looked so nice - bound to be a classic one day! TK blew us off, though - I think we took too long getting over there. We had to stop and watch rat-baby on some sick route for a few minutes and I guess TK ran out of time (sorry TK!). Since neither Winterstorm nor I had brought our trad racks, we were SOL. We ended up pigging out at Mark's BBQ, which was pretty darn good!

I want to lead that crack next time. I'll never head down without my rack again!!

Post by **Yasmeen** » Mon Nov 04, 2002 5:30 pm

Lynne, what were the sport routes that made you change your mind?

Post by **sita** » Mon Nov 04, 2002 6:46 pm

Well, that sucks. That is a really fun climb. Next time. It was a great day anyway.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Nov 04, 2002 7:38 pm

Yeah, Sita - it was a great day! I hope to climb with you again soon.

You kicked ass!

Yasmeen, there have been several sport routes I have really enjoyed. They are all well below your level of climbing, though! Those that come immediately to mind are:

Pogue Ethics
Lord of the Flies
Scooby Doo
Kentucky Pinstripe

I especially liked Scooby Doo yesterday. It was pumpy at the bottom and technical at the top and really made me work on my footwork - which has always been my weakness. That climb is bound to be a classic. Actually Blue Plate Special was a fun climb, too.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Mon Nov 04, 2002 7:47 pm

Lynne, I've only done Pogue Ethics and Lord of the Flies from the ones you mentioned, but I loved Pogue Ethics! Nice job!