RRC Archives

A few weeks ago I wondered around torrent past the poopie wall, down the bank up the other side, past Greg's 3 routes and came across three old school climbs, that Porter put up a long time ago, like 1992 or so. They are mostly vertical and the one onthe left was really cool. The one in the middle had a roof half way up that I couldn't figure out how to pull and the one onthe right looked out of control.....ie...super exciting, no chalk and lots of space between clips. I'lll have to go back and get on that one later. They are in the shade in the afternoon. Anyone else been on these.

I believe the one we did is called Livi'n in the UK and the middle one is Mad Porter's Disease. Livi'n in the UK was about 11+, and Mad Porter's Disease seemed impossibly hard... 12+ or 13???? I couldn't do the roof.. my guess is that something has broken as we all know how roofs are at the Red.

I am talking a pure horizontal roof, not a really steep piece of rock.

Any ways I wanted to see what the scoop was on these. I met T-bone out there that day so I know he can offer some input.

Ray, You need to add these three climbs to the on-line guide. Probably just put them at the end of the torrent list.

The were originally rated left to right 11c 11d and 11d. I posted a pic of the3rd one in the photo album, Which to me was much harder than 11d.

i love that... must be "a hold broke" or it is "13"...when some climber has his "I’m a player" perception crushed because he can't figure out a crux...comes on-line and looks for answers and reassurance from his peeps ...maybe it's just possible you were lacking in the skills sunshine

P2U climbs 5.12+/13??? so if he couldn't do the move then it's only a fair observation of his to believe the route to be equal to or harder than that.

natas wrote:i love that... must be "a hold broke" or it is "13"...when some climber has his "I’m a player" perception crushed because he can't figure out a crux...comes on-line and looks for answers and reassurance from his peeps ...maybe it's just possible you were lacking in the skills sunshine

Hello, flamethrower.

Did you reg an alter just to be an anonymous ho-bag?

natas = NICS, moonbeam?

natas,

Wow...I am crushed and psyched. I am psyched b/c your first post on this board was to take the time to flame me... that only makes me feel good about myself... but then you crushed me by saying that I suck and have no climbing skillz

Hey but Artsay to the rescue!!!! I was wondering how I was going to face myself in the mirror knowing that I couldn't pull the roof on the climb, but Artsay saved the day by reafirming my self-worth as a person and backing up the basis for my guess on how hard the roof might be.... 8)

natas, why don't you go out there and give it a try and let me know what you think...maybe it is 5.9+ and I just missed a hold..it is possible.

t-bone...Did you ever do the one I am referring to?

Have a good weekend everyone

Sounds like some good routes to check out-although I wonder how much traffic they've had. I've involuntarily cleaned a few routes before. Not much fun.

The one on the left was pretty cool. 11c is about right after you go up it and figure out where the holds are as there ain't much chalk.... like you said above no need to wonder how much traffic thjey have had, you can probably count the number of peopl ethat have been up each of the three climbs on both hands since they were put up over a decade ago. All in all the rock was pretty solid, and the moves were fun.... a little different than the staple 11's at Torrent

Air Canada,
They were no where near as bad as that one you and I were on at Torrent last year where we about killed ourselves and eachother with broken rock shrapnel

I definitely want to go back and try the one on the right side... and maybe the roof one in the middle again...we'll see.

I went over there a long time ago to take an emergency poop.