Going route surching tomarrow... Any advice?

Post by **philip171** » Mon Jun 14, 2004 10:07 pm

I dont have any one to climb with. But me and a friend are going down and will try to find a few more easy leads that way we can head striat down and know were we are going next time we go climbing.
I plan on finding....
Eurkea at global,
Duck soup at soalar collector,
Please dont feed the triceratops and danger mouse at pistal,
and maybe creatuer feature, how ever its a 5.9 and I need routes in the 5.6-5.7 range.

I have been going to C sharp or B flat, Ledger line, some times a 5.10a and a 5.10D at torrent falls we will top rope and work on, and we have tried dream of a bee, and jump for joy. On jump for joy I couldent get past the crux, and a friend of mine did it after one long fall. I have tried dream of a bee, but it was to far of a run to the ankers and couldent make it. I had to bail off.
Any advice on getting past that spot? It over hangs slightly and is a good run out so its pretty hairly working on it.
Any how,
Thanks for any advice and if you know of any more routes, let me know!
Also... Any thing below 5.11 that can be top roped from the top I would be intrested in,
Thanks!

Post by **ynot** » Mon Jun 14, 2004 10:23 pm

I suppose you've done Mr bungle and C sharp B flat.

Post by KD » Mon Jun 14, 2004 10:41 pm

There are two real easy slab routes at Torrent, I don't know their names but they are both right of Wadcutter. If you're going to Pistol anyway give the ten (Chemstuds) a shot. After on or two moves its cake to the top - short route too. This is an easy way to check out a higher grade.

Post by **philip171** » Mon Jun 14, 2004 11:18 pm

Thanks allot, I will also check out Mr.bungle. I forgot to add, I have done the salb at torrent and its great. It is over bolted but makes a good warm up climb and no run outs. I dont think I know of the other slab you are talking about? Dreem of a bee is the to left of it if your facing it. Then its waddcutter I think... Dream of a bee is mostly pockets with a bad run out to the ankers.
Well thanks allot!

Post by **Wes** » Mon Jun 14, 2004 11:50 pm

Damn, that is a lot of walking and driving. And the road to pistol may still be closed.

You might be better off just trying to find Euraka (don't forget the bolted first pitch of whiteout (5.7) and Duck Soup, as they are at least on the same side of the parkway.

Or, just go to the coffee shop and play around on the traverse and easy problems. You can find those routes, and still get a good couple hour workout in. No pad needed.

Wes

Post by **tsparks** » Tue Jun 15, 2004 12:25 am

I would recommend not getting on Dream of a Bee (I had no idea that was the name of that climb), until you are a climbing harder routes. I don't remember it being very much of a runout to the anchors, but it is pretty sketchy, chossy climbing up there for a 5.8, and the fall if you mess up, isn't good for you ankles.

You should go up to Left Flank and get on Mr. Bungle, Face Up to that Crack (if you are ok with an easy runout), and Brothers Stair. They are all fun routes with a variety of types of climbing.

Post by **marathonmedic** » Tue Jun 15, 2004 3:38 am

philip171 wrote:I forgot to add, I have done the salb at torrent and its great. It is over bolted but makes a good warm up climb and no run outs. I dont think I know of the other slab you are talking about? Dreem of a bee is the to left of it if your facing it. Then its waddcutter I think... Dream of a bee is mostly pockets with a bad run out to the ankers.

I'm confused here. As I recall Wadcutter is the one that that has all the swiss cheese pockets on the upper half that angles to the right up top. The holds are good as long as you stay relaxed and the top ledge (anchor clipping hold) isn't wet. The next climb left of that is Bandolier (5.11a), a nice long and straight climb with the huge flake at the top. Dream of a Bee and Cordelia are both great slab routes to the right of Wadcutter and I don't remember either being runout. Both are great routes.

If you have a stick clip, try Tourist Trap next to the 10 wall at the top of the alternate approach at Torrent. You can preclip the first two bolts which are a little dicey for what you're looking for but the rest is a beautiful arete climb. You may even be able to hang the anchors from above.

Good luck and have fun!

Post by **J-Rock** » Tue Jun 15, 2004 3:49 am

As of last weekend there are 5 new easy routes at Torrent Falls. These routes were equipped by T-Bone, J-Rock, and Bruisebrother. They might be used for Boy Scout troops and such. Please check with Mark first for more specific information and permission to climb them.

Post by **marathonmedic** » Tue Jun 15, 2004 3:53 am

I don't know Mark and it's a bit of a drive from here. How else can we get info about these routes? Ratings, locations, etc. Are they separate from the rest of the climbing and therefore needing special permission? Any input from T-Bone, J-Rock, or Bruisebrother? Thx.

Post by **J-Rock** » Tue Jun 15, 2004 3:57 am

Sorry about the lack of information. Mark did not mention if they would be separate from the rest of the climbing, therefore it is probably best to ask him first. He is the owner/operator of the TF B & B and the Via Ferrata.