RRC Archives

I climbed for 8 years and loved the excitement and sense of adventure. Then I sorta got into rut where I was going down to the gorge and out to the same cliffs and standing in line for the same climbs. So much for the excitement and sense of adventure. I gave it up.

But after years away from climbing I started getting the need again. I started climbing on some holds in the garage a few months ago and last week I traveled down to the gorge for the first time in 5 years. I decided I would start all over at the beginning. My daughter and I walked in to Fortress Wall and I geared up and wallowed my way up American Crack. I set up a toprope and the daughter worked her way up the route. We loved it.

It's good to be back. WAHOOO!!

ZSpider

That's the best part about being a traveling climber. There is so much beautiful rock out there in every shape, size, color, texture... etc. Mix it up and sample some other fine areas to keep it fresh, new, and exciting. Last year alone we climbed in 13 different states! What an adventure!

One of the great things about climbing is that it's a good reason to travel. During my climbing days I saw a lot of beautiful country. One of the many places I didn't go to was the Gunks. I'd like to go there some time. I can't believe they got High Exposure, a route with a fully horizontal roof that's rated 5.6.

By the way, I was looking for easy climbs that the daughter could get up so after we did American Crack, I walked the cliff down and sat a toprope up on a wimpy 5.2 called Calypso III. That darn climb just about kicked my butt. There's a little overhangy part right off the deck that I had trouble with, and above that I alternated between fearing the crack was going to swallow me or spit me out.

ZSpider

Yup, we climbed High E last year. What a great route! Karla led the first two pitches in her usual run-out style (one piece every 50 or 60 feet) and in one big pitch. Then I had the joy of leading the super-sweet roof pitch. I couldn't wait to get off the ledge because there was an unbearable stench emanating from the pool of urine that was left behind by some unknown climber. The bouldering along the carriage road was great too!

Yeah, that Calypso III is old school 5.2 huh? You can use a #5 Camalot up high. I think when we climbed that years ago there was a wimpy tree at the top and some stinging insects that added to the excitement.

The original line starts left of the overhang.It makes it much easier, but no pro.

Definitely easier start to the left, but that's the only overhang in the Gorge I can go.

Spidy, when you get to the Gunks, be sure to do Gelsa(5.4) at the Nears. 3 pitches, the last one will blow you away for 5.4! My wife and I did it Thanksgiving week acouple years ago. No one there then , course it was 34 Degrees! Do Disneyland (5.6) and look for Mikey Mouse at the belay! Welcome back!

Work your way up by doing Bedtime, Diamond in the Crack, Motha, Arrowhead, Environmental Impact, Party Time, Roadside, Casual Viewing.

Climb On!