RRC Archives

Can someone give me some beta for Disappearer at Global Village?

I could not find a way to get to the 3rd bolt.

I was trying to crank for a left hand jug off a quarter pad crimp on my right hand. My left foot was on a small nub and my right foot in a good toe jam.

The picture in the on-line guide book shows a climber on the left hand jug, i.e. having completed the move I can't do.

Am I missing something?
Do I really have to throw for the jug off the right hand crimp?
Is this the crux move?

Any advice would be appreciated. I am determined to redpoint Disappearer next time I get down to RRG. Some Beta and/or crimp training is my only hope to get this move.

Thanks in advance,

Thank you, I should have thought to do a search before I asked.

I am glad I am not the only one who needed beta for the move. I'll give it another try!

Thanks for the quick response,

I have much better/easier beta. Grab the undercling with your right hand, stand on the good feet and then reach up and grab the jug. The route goes at about 10c. Trust me this beta works perfect.

Yup, and before you do all that, make sure you're 6'6"... you're such a punk, Andrew.

Yasmeen the Messiah of Trad Climbing because She Cleaned Traditional House wrote:oh look at me! my name is yasmeen and i sent the two hardest trad routes in the gorge this weekend because i'm a big gay homo in love with a bearded man. i'm sooo cool now that i can diss on "sport climbing" and "beta". i fucking represent.

you're a bitch yasmeen

Horatio Felacio wrote:

Yasmeen the Messiah of Trad Climbing because She Cleaned Traditional House wrote:oh look at me! my name is yasmeen and i sent the two hardest trad routes in the gorge this weekend because i'm a big gay homo in love with a bearded man. i'm sooo cool now that i can diss on "sport climbing" and "beta". i fucking represent.

teach me how to be like you, yasmeen

Fuck you, Ho. I don't have time for little pissants like you anymore. Can't you see that I'm fucking royalty now that I've sent two routes after working them on toprope before I ever lead them and using beta from climbers 10 times better than me and gear I don't even own?? Don't talk to me. Ever again.

I smell booty...

Really Pirate....where might your nose be...hmmmmm? haha

The beta for Disappearer is all in the footwork.

Mj