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Anchor placement for Lunatic Fringe

Posted: Mon May 17, 2004 4:14 am
by hamsco
I climbed this route over the weekend, and enjoyed it alot.
But I was wondering....

The anchors I used were positioned over the now choped route Daydreams and Nightmares. Flying Brian put up that route in 92. What was the decent before those anchors were put in (ie 84 thru 92).??

In John's guide under Daydreams it says "Shun the poorly placed anchors at the ledge and find another way down"

On the online guide there are some comments about the anchor placement (on L. Fringe) with two different opinions.

Would anyone mind if I moved them over on top of L. Fringe, to save a second from the swing. Or maybe just put in new anchors.

Granted I would keep them high enough on the ledge to keep the runout and the R rating.

Hey Grant...if you read this what do you think, being the FA and such.

Posted: Mon May 17, 2004 12:03 pm
by SCIN
I think it's a great idea to move them over the top. It's kind of silly where they are now and it sucks for whoever follows especially if they're not a solid climber.

Posted: Mon May 17, 2004 1:24 pm
by Wes
Yep, moving them (or adding new ones) would only make the route better, without taking any of the adventure away. If you drag a drill up there, then maybe check the anchors on close to the edge and astoflex as well.

Wes

Posted: Mon May 17, 2004 3:35 pm
by Wicked Tribe
I like the idea. Use a hand drill though. Wink wink.

If the 2nd isn't solid then they could take a really cool swinging whipper.

Close to the Edge has a couple better bolts but it needs to be cleaned up.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2004 5:03 am
by ynot
Does anyone know if the crack above Star Bellied Sneeches has been done?

Posted: Tue May 18, 2004 8:47 pm
by Wicked Tribe
Yep, its called the Lorax Tree 5.8+. Hampton and someone else did it a few years ago.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2004 9:58 pm
by ynot
Nope .Lorax tree is left of it.

Posted: Wed May 19, 2004 1:40 pm
by JB
Nope, Lorax starts left, then continues above.

Posted: Wed May 19, 2004 2:43 pm
by Wicked Tribe
Right.

Posted: Wed May 19, 2004 3:54 pm
by Christian
No. your other right.