RRC Archives

Man, ya know what I hear a lot that's kind of strange?
When people are referring to a route they can't do and they say things like:

a) It's really not that bad, it's just an endurance route or
b) It's really not that bad, it's just a couple of hard moves or
c) It's really not that bad, it's just kind of technical

I mean, isn't the whole challenge of sending a route usually linking up all of the moves in one go without falling? Isn't that what gives a route a higher grade? How can any of the three main ingredients of a hard rating be downplayed in such a manner?

I think the one I hear most is:
a) It's really not that bad, it's just an endurance problem

Man, endurance is probably one of the most time consuming aspects of physical strength to build. It may take a person a year to build the kind of endurance needed to send the route they're saying "isn't that bad because it's an endurance problem".

Right on scin. i could not have said it better!!

Right you are Mr. Kotter...I've been climbing about 3 years with a few breaks as long as several months in that time span. My endurance is better than it was when I started but it still sucks like gravity. Of course my training program being what it is, practically non-existent, has a lot to do with that. Improvement in technique and balance has come a lot quicker than endurance by a long shot.

definitely! to do a route you have to get to the top without falling period. what always drives me nuts is when people insist a route is rated based on the single hardest move. that is obviously not the case for most of the routes in the red, especially the ones that are overhanging. this may be the case for some routes where you can take a smoke break between cruxes but it's certainly not true for ALL routes. everyone has strengths and weaknesses and every route is unique so just do your best to get up the fucker without falling!

Hey, the route is real easy until I fall.

Danny, you are such a good speaker. You seriously are my hero!

if routes in the red were based on the single hardest move, the hardest route would be v3.

Those are just classic sport wiennie complaints.
Here are a couple of boulderer wiennie no send rebuttals.
a)The holds are greasy.
b)The feet suck on this problem.
c)It is to reachy.

And the everpopular gear placing pussy.
a)I Should have taped up.
b)I should have not taped up.
c)That is not a crack climb, that is face climb with gear.

I should have taped is only a legitimate complaint if your hands are really bloody.

I ran into an "acquaintance" who finally made it to the Red and he just couldn't quit spraying about not doing any hard moves in the Red on any of the 11's or .12's he sampled. On and on, well after my eyes glazed over and I'd used up all my oxygen reserved for sighing, I asked him what .12s he managed to send while there.

Silence

"It's just endurance climbing man". He said.

pfft!