Safe draw ware?

Post by **philip171** » Tue May 04, 2004 2:21 pm

After a few leads with only one 15 foot fall, I have noticed some ware on the beiner on some of my draws. Mostly scraties and dings from the 5.7 next to c sharp were the draw rubbed on the rock, but some of have some fairly deep dings and nicks, and one even on the rope end. A what point should I replace these biners? Nothing feels sharp enogh to abrade a rope, but its hard to make that call.
Thanks for any pointers.

Post by **Artsay** » Tue May 04, 2004 2:28 pm

I've had my draws for 10+ years and they have received active use and borderline abuse. The only draws I've ever retired were due to the gates not closing right (getting sticky) or ones I dropped from a high distance. Don't worry about replacing your biners after such minimal use. If they get bad enough to need replacing, you'll know.

Post by **Eagleman** » Tue May 04, 2004 2:42 pm

biners will take beating before they need to be retired. They should last several years. Scratches and dings will always happend when the draws are runbbing against the rock, its just part of climbing. Retire them if they have gate problems like Artsay's or if there are noticable stress fractures.

Post by **dhoyne** » Tue May 04, 2004 2:50 pm

A guide in J-Tree told me that if the gate don't work, replace it. If it works, and the biner is still roughly in the same shape, it's ok to use.

Post by **rhunt** » Tue May 04, 2004 4:10 pm

only thing I have noticed about my older biners. The biner on the bolt end of my old draws gets very dinged and scratched up from wearing on the bolt hanger which if you use the draw upside down can catch on the sheath of your rope and cause problems. Plus after a while the rope end biner will wear very thin...watch for that.

Post by **air canada** » Tue May 04, 2004 5:22 pm

It doesn't take long to get a few nicks and dings in your biners, but significant wear takes time, and you'll know it when you see it. ie-the rope will have cut a big notch in the bottom of the biner.
Also be sure that your draws are always hung the same way, as the bolt will make scratches in the biner's surface. They don't look like much but can destroy your rope.

Post by **the lurkist** » Tue May 04, 2004 5:45 pm

Russ Clune told me a story about a leaver biner ( a BD biner) from an anchor at the New. Apparently this biner had been tr'd on for sometime. It had a groove worn into the basket about 75% through. Russ sent it to BD in SLC. They broke it and it failed at the about the same strength as a new one.

Post by **air canada** » Tue May 04, 2004 7:15 pm

I'd like to know a little more detail on the test setup and failure mode on that biner. Seems a little odd that it could be worn 75% through and not suffer a significant strength loss.

Post by **Bruisebrother** » Tue May 04, 2004 11:32 pm

Scratches and dings! Unsafe man! Leave them at Miguels and I'll take care of them for you !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Post by **ynot** » Tue May 04, 2004 11:38 pm

Dragging gear through offwiths and chimneys scratches it up something fierce.
Once on cavers,something got hung and ripped my gear loop out. every cam on it fell down the chimney.Didnt hurt it a bit. I was more worried about my belayer.