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Im after some easy leads right now, I have done C sharp, part of jump for joy, the 5.7 next to it, and one other 5.7 left of C sharp and about 2-3 right of kamp site on road side. Torrent falls thought us how to climb, so we stoped by there and checked out some of there easy leads, I forgot the names, but one is a slab that is only like 45 feet but is chocked full of bolts, I mean, it takes 8 draws to get up this thing. Its a 5.8 I think, it was a very, very good warm up climb, but the one next to it, dream of the bee, I also want to do, I think its a 5.8, but any one know were wadcutter is? Dream of the bee was one of my first top ropping climbs awhile go, and there were some people leading wadcutter and I reamber it being only a 5.9 and angled out allot, so lead falls would be into mid air. Any one know how many climbs over it is? Also what about any other easy or safe leads down there? I looked in my guide, but the map is nothing on how the lay out is.

Also... If you go from the parking lot, and take the short cut trail on up, you come out in front one a 90 foot climb. The last I heard it was a 5.10, I top roped it from the top (torrent falls take people rappeling off this climb to) and it was no 5.10a, eather a 5.10c or d, maybe harder, I toped roped a 5.10a right of c sharp and had no problems, this I spent a good 30 mins working it. Any one know the real raiting? Also... I noticed there are some new bolted routes around this one, any one know the raitings and how many bolts? Well thanks for any beta.

Wadcutter should be the one to the left of Dream of A Bee.

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... tfalls.pdf

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... .php?id=60

::The pdf file does not reflect the new names Dream of A Bee and Cordelia::

philip171 wrote:Also what about any other easy or safe leads down there?

Down there? Down where? Just Torrent? If you want other easy leads, there are tons all over the Red.

Personally, I thought Pocket Pussy (at Torrent) was an easy lead... if you are looking into the 10's.

Here are other easy ones:
Mr. Bungle
Mercy Miss Percy
Sunshine
Moonbeam
Blue Plate Special
Brother Stair
Whiteout Direct

... just to name a few!

I wouldn't recommend Sunshine and Moonbeam to anyone. Those climbs suck...

The ones at Left Flank are worth the walk up. Just get up there early to avoid the masses.

Just my opinion...

The five "new" routes at torrent up the short cut trail are all in the mid tens. the far left one on the arete is possibably a 5.9 but the first two bolts are shady as fuck. have a stick clip or be a good ten climber before doing this one. The rest a real good 5.10s. i sighted all 5 nothing harder then a 5.10c

Adding to the list of climbs that suck.

Brother Stair Sucks
Mercy Miss Percy was my first sport lead and I thought it was kinda nasty of an early lead from what I remember

Unfortunatly there are not a ton of classic easy routes at the red. Do a search for sport routes under 5.9 with the online guide and youll see what i mean.

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuideV2/search.php

What's wrong with Brother Stair, I think it's as good of a climb for the grade as anything else. Sunshine and moonbeam are good moderate climbs, although they may be a bit stiff for gumby's

The easy routes stay crowded all day,go late in the afternoon and they are empty.

Back in my former climbing life, I had no problem with the easy 10s, but I feared many of the 9s, Moonbeam, Sunshine, and Kampsite, to name a few. The problem with some of those 9s is that they are not straightforward. There is chalk on all kinds of sucker holds and I would pump out shopping for one I liked. But not being straightforward is part of the challenge. Although there are times when it sounds appealing, I don't think I'd care for spray-painted arrows pointing out all the holds.

ZSpider