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I was wondering if people could let me know of areas where there is a lot of variability in grades... My main climbing partner is much better than I, so I am looking for areas where I can climb 5.8-5.10 and they can climb 11 and up. have any good ideas??

Roadside is probably the best bet... great 10's, 11's and 12's.
Left Flank has a great 10 and 8, only a few 11's that aren't so hot and one of the best collections of 12's inthe gorge.
Try Funk Rock City to get away from the usual, two good 10's and bunches of good 11's.

Too bad the SR is still closed although it looks like things are progressing as Oil Crack and/or the Arena would probably be the most fun for both of you.

Jenn,
you should go to summersville,you would have alot to do and jeff would have alot too.

who is jeff?

Yea I second summersville, that place is fuckin bad ass, alot of variability, from 5.6 to 5.14 all within 5 to 10 min walk of each other. The New in general is better climbing, just there isnt a good local scene, thats why the red overall is better.

if your partner is so much better than you I'm sure they know the Red well enough to pick a good spot....they had to start somewhere too...now here's the question...do they care about you climbing, enough to go to those places.

depends on what kind of mood they are in. we share time, obviously, cuz i'm not just going to be a belay girl. thanks for asking though

Phantasia has alot of good stuff too.

amen allah...the New is way better climbing,and the scene sucks.

pigsteak wrote:amen allah...the New is way better climbing,and the scene sucks.

and if you two were there, the scene wouldn't be any better... as a matter of fact, why don't you two stay in the red, so that at least I have one place to climb that doesn't have the "good scene"